Orla Kiely – A Life In Pattern

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As one of the most recognizable and iconic designers of the last few decades, it only seems right that the Fashion and Textiles museum are celebrating the work of Orla Kiely in their latest exhibition “A Life in Pattern”.

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 Image by Nicole Nodland© OrlaKiely

Since her London Fashion Week debut in 1994, the designer has been recognised for her perfectly repeatable retro patterns and a nostalgic colour pallet. “Growing up in Ireland in the late 1960’s and early 1970’s was intrinsic to my creative DNA.” Inspired by all things mid centaury and with a love for nature, Kiely’s work is charming, uplifting and stylized.

In the Fashion and Textile Museums latest exhibition, visitors are able to see over 150 patterns and products from the Orla Kiely archive and a unique insight into her inspiration and design process. The exhibition explores the power of decoration and the impact pattern can have on our life.

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Own Images

“Overseeing every single detail within the design process, Orla Kiely is meticulous, motivated, focused and passionate. Prior to production, every aspect matters to her from the first phase of designing to making, mixing colours, creating artwork and sampling.” Fashion and Textile Museum

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Own Image

“Pattern is not a trend for me, to be taken up one minute and abandoned the next when the winds of fashion change. Pattern is in me. It is my life” OrlaKiely for The Fashion and Textiles Museum

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Own Image

Kiely’s work spans across home-ware, fashion and accessories and her pattern handwriting lends itself to all 3 product categories.  Her designs are translated through print, embroidery, knitwear and woven fabrics with her unique taste of colour carried throughout each product.

Here is a closer look at her work:

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Images courtesy of Orla Kiely

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Orla Kiely Spring Summer 2017 New York Fashion Week. Photography courtesy of Orla Kiely.

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Image 1: Orla KielyAutumn Winter 2017 Campaign. Photography courtesy of Orla Kiely, Image 2: Orla KielyResort 2016 Campaign. Photography courtesy of Orla Kiely

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Image 1: L’Orla 2018, Photography courtesy of Orla Kiely, Image 2: Stem Lookbook 2018, Photography courtesy of Orla Kiely11

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You can see the Life in Pattern exhibition at the Fashion and Textiles Museum until the 23rd September

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

http://www.ftmlondon.org/ftm-exhibitions/orla-kiely-life-in-pattern/

https://www.orlakiely.com

A Celebration of Flowers by Kaffe Fassett with Candace Bahouth

 

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The Victoria Gallery, Bath, Somerset

                                                23rd May –  24th August

 

 

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To celebrate the release of his new book, Kaffe Fassett has organized a new exhibition “A Celebration of Flowers” along with one of his long term collaborators and fellow American; Candace Bahouse. The installation includes 40 of Fassett’s quilts and some of Bahouth’s many ornate mosaics mirrors and pieces conceived for being placed outdoors.

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Kaffe Fassett is originally from California but moved to England as a student in the 1960s. He is now one of the world’s most renowned textile designers and his work features in museums world wide including in the Victoria and Albert. This exhibition is an exciting riot of colour leaving one feeling uplifted and joyful.

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Candace Bahouth is an American artist who settled in Somerset. She is known for her unique mosaics that she makes using fragments of china, natural materials and sometimes pieces of plastics. Her work also features in many museums including the Victoria and Albert.

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If you are visiting the lovely Georgian city of Bath any time soon, you might want to pop into the Victoria Gallery to see the exhibition or even attend some of the talks that are being held by both of the artists. More can be found on the Victoria Gallery website:

https://www.googleadservices.com/pagead/aclk?sa=L&ai=DChcSEwjevMiHsZncAhXtnO0KHRPSAU8YABAAGgJkZw&ohost=www.google.com&cid=CAESQeD29TxXt-sPO6IrzrHCifpTOtaqmVUqAeEaLRqbayxmk1YQKG4UOQf_M8KdfQavWMOK1AKEDqXSI5deOXS3v2QF&sig=AOD64_1PdllVyccInRPP_Bckxy_1

All pictures thanks to http://victoriagal.org.uk

Festival Fashion

We felt the loss of Glastonbury this year but Festival Season is well under way and the sun is shining (for now)!

So, whilst most of us deliberate between packing flip flops or wellies, lets look back for inspiration at the Coachella Festival in California earlier this year.

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Image courtesy of cosmopolitan.com

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Image courtseyof hips.hearstapps.com, Image courtesy of Refinery29.uk

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Image courtesy of showpo.com, Amanda Sinclair / pintrest

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Image courtesy of fashioncognoscente.blogspot.com

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Resort 2019 – Top 8

Resort SS19 has seen a plethora of print and we have bought you the a run down of our favourite printed pieces. Here, we take a look at some of the collections that we feel will set the colour and pattern trends for the summer months in terms of print.

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Gucci treated us to more scarf prints as a continuation from many of their recent collections. Decadent flowers with borders of contrasting colour and cleverly placed motifs make the ever loved Gucci floral feel new and updated.

Etro

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“The Daydreamer” by writer Ian McEwan was the imaginative inspiration behind Veronica Etro’s latest collection. The collection is full of mystical prints with a slightly psychedelic feel which mimics the novels idea of being swept away into otherworldly places. We love how the prints hark back to the 1960’s with the bright colours and free moving patterns.

Valentino

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Branding has continued to be a big print theme from AW18 and Valentino have gone all out to deliver it. Paired back with beautiful scarf prints and mix and match ditsies, the written word within a print is a great novelty update.

Altuzarra

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As we start to see ‘Toile de Jouy’ prints returning, Altuzarra took it one step further with large scale illustrated landscapes wrapping around silhouettes. This Italian landscape motif, inspired by the novel ‘Call Me by Your Name’, is used on everything from accessories to sequined cocktail dresses.

Erdem

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Print guru Erdem blew us away yet again with his whimsical floral fabrics. The resort collection showed prints on many different coloured grounds which is perfect for the lead up to spring summer. Florals are very feminine with pops of colourand exotic birds.

Johanna Ortiz

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Colombian designer Johanna Ortiz is always a highly anticipated designer to watch in terms of print. A relative newcomer to the fashion world, the designer is not afraid to experiment with scale and colour. With a strong safari theme coming through in her collection, we feel like this show will influence a big trend going forward in the season.

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Designer Prabal Gurung gained inspiration for his latest collection on a trip home to Nepal. Blown up paisleys and a sea of tie dyes, Gurung explored the concept of cultures colliding and the idea of being a free spirit.

Diane von Furstenberg

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Only featuring 8 looks, DVF is certainly more about quality than quantity. Prints are bold, graphic and vivid in colour; everything we expect from a DVF collection.

Leicester

Leicester – 18th– 19th June 2018

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Hello!

My name is Fran. I come from a small town near Bath and attend one of the town’s secondary schools. I’ve always been interested in art and design.

Part of my school’s program is to offer work experience to its year 10 students. I was offered a position with Design and Colour Ltd who are the agents for Sublitex, an Italian design company making heat transfer paper.

In order to understand their product better I was taken to Leicester.

Arriving in Leicester

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4Here I was taken to Fashion Fabrics to see how heat transfer paper is used to print fabrics. I also saw the production of screen-print fabric and the digital printers used to print the transfer paper. It was really interesting and I now understand a lot more about the process of printing fabrics.

 

 

 

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I also visited the Sublitex office and shown the library of all the fabric designs. I was given the chance to make some moodboards for Spring Summer 2019 and was taught about how to identify a good and bad quality print.

 

 

Visiting Retailers

We visited Quiz to see the prints and find out which were selling best.

It was interesting to learn that clothes were made in Leicester and also to learn how to read labels and see what they are made of and where things are made.

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I now know so much more about fabrics and clothes.

 

Graduate Fashion Week 2018

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With graduate fashion week turning 26 this year, we saw another round of aspiring graduates take on the career propelling catwalk at the Truman Brewery.

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A highlight of the week was the prestigious award by Christopher Bailey, the Gold Award, which was won by Edinburgh College of Art student Halina North. Halina’s work displayed a strong interest in sustainability which is looking to be a very important trend over the next few years and its lovely that this is celebrated and awarded at graduate level also.

Here is a look at some of the designers who stood out from a print perspective during the week:

Coral Smith, Sheffield Hallam3

Coral Smith explored the deconstruction of working class menswear. Her prints were influenced by an industrial landscape and traditional male roles. The print being the main focus of this collection, was vibrant and exaggerated, really challenging these masculine notions.

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Louise Clark – Manchester School of Art

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Awarded the George Catwalk to Store award, Louise Clark’s whimsical collection showed great commercial potential. She used feminine fabrications such as devore and flocking to add depth to the already enchanting prints.

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Zara Byford, Sheffield Hallam

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Zara Byford took inspiration from her hometown of Skegness to create her luminescent collection. She looked at the arcade and fair culture that makes Skegness memorable for all the wrong reasons. The oversized checks are inspired by the Burberry check which is a popular fashion statement in the seaside town.

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Zainab Fazal, University of Lanchashire

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Lemon yellow and zingy turquoise, such a fresh colourcombination to sit back with dark denim. Geometric patterns placed upon the garments in various shapes and repeats adds to the collections intrigue.

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Fraser Miller, De Montfort University

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Bold and bright are words not usually used to describe menswear design but Fraser Miller certainly broke this mould. A brave mix of vintage floralsand cut-about knitted stripes, Millers collection was innovative and playful. The colourful pallets was complimentary with bright hues sitting back to camels and burnt rusts.

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Evelyne Babin, Epson University of the Arts

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Voluminous, daring pattern and colour, Evelyne Babins runway collection had it all and was one of the favorites among the judges. Inspired by East African culture, the collection was a beautiful mixture of hand crafts and pattern from this corner of the world. Banana-leaf craft, woodblock printing and broderie-anglaise were all techniques used to execute this vibrant collection.

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With thanks to the GFW press team

All images curtsey of Graduate Fashion Week

Resort 19 Trends

As promised, here is a look at some of the key print trends we have taken from the Resort 19 shows. From animal skins to ditsies, scarf placement to psychedelic prints, this season is set to be pattern fuelled and full of colour.

Scarf Prints

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Images Left to Right: Gucci, Valentino, Tibi

The idea of splicing florals with bold stripes and placing prints in a certain manner to create a scarf like layout has been an emerging trend for the last few seasons. Resort shows such as Valentino, Tibi and Gucci are showing matching sets to really emphasize the trend.

Ditsies

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Images left to right: Altuzarra, Preen, Louise Vuitton, Ulla Jhonson

Ditsies are having a revamp this season with bright grounds and print clashing. Mix and match ditsies and combining pretty floralswith sporty stripes is a new way to wear the traditional floral.

Animal

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Images left to right: Alice and Olivia, Roberto Cavalli, Phillip Plein, Victoria Beckham

Animal continues to dominate the shows in all types of form. Resort 19 see’s animal print become a lot more daring with skins such as giraffe and cow coming through. We love the mixture of animal that Roberto Cavalliuses throughout his show combining snake with cow print like the image above.

Checks

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Images left to right: Michael Kors, Tibi, Veronica Beard, Alexa Chung

Bright checks replace dark heritage checks for spring summer. Contrasting scales and colours are key in this trend, mixing 2 or more checks in one outfit offers maximum printed impact. A key show for this trend was Michael Kors with checks across both clothing and accessories.

Psychedelic

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Images left to right: Emilio Pucci, Prada, Etro

Many designers are harking back to a more peaceful, colourful time and displaying prints of wonder and imagination. Designers such as Etro and Emilio Pucci are taking us back to the 60’s with their retro, colour clashing prints and psychedelic pattern which is a very exciting new direction for print design

Paisleys

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Images left to right: Roberto Cavalli, Etro, Roberto Cavalli

As winter boho became such a staple style for AW18, it is only right that paisley pattern and ethnic pattern returns for spring summer. Paisley is seen in all forms, from bright, bold statement paisley’s to wallpaper coverage in dark rich tones for a more transitional look. We love the paisley and scarf combination in the Roberto Cavallishow simply in two tones but in a statement placement.

Type

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Images left to right: Valentino, Versace, Valentino

A slightly more sophisticated way of novelty slogans is present in the resort shows. Branding is back in force but designers are trying to design in ways that text looks part of a non-print like a geo or a stripe to give that added interest.

Scenic

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Images left to right: Oscar de la Renta, No.21, Altuzarra, Christian Dior

From tonal tropical landscapes influenced by traditional ‘Toile de Jouy’ pattern, to hand painted illustrative scenes, the theme of escapism resonates itself through print across the resort collections. Tonal and monochromatic patterns are commercial and stylish for all markets

Safari

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Images left to right: Philipp Plein, Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini, Johanna Ortiz, Johanna Ortiz

As a general theme, Safari styles and prints are saturating the shows and is a must have trend for the season. From rich ochre ground prints to the plethora of true animal skins, we feel as if we are stepping straight into the African savannah with this combination of pattern.

All images from Vogue.com

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Marimekko

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Marimekko is a Finnish design house known for bold original prints and colours since 1951 with whom Uniqlo have teamed up to produce a new special edition collection called Life Wear. Simple timeless silhouettes for which Uniqlo is famed are adorned with the vibrant bold Scandi prints giving a joyful and confident range.2

“UNIQLO is known worldwide for its well-designed essentials that are made for all. The special edition Marimekko and UNIQLO brand collaboration collection allows us to share the joy of bold self-expression in print and colour with consumers around the world. We are very excited about this collaboration and can’t wait to see how people will wear the pieces in the collection to reflect their own style and personality,” says Tiina Alahuhta-Kasko, President and CEO of Marimekko.

Film below

Marimekko is a Finnish design house celebrated worldwide for its original prints and colours. Founded in 1951 by a visionary woman Armi Ratia, Marimekko is said to be one of the world’s first real lifestyle brands combining fashion, bags and accessories as well as home decoration into one unique point of view.

The company states that “Through our timeless, distinctive and functional designs, we want to empower people to be happy as they are and bring joy to their everyday lives through bold prints and colours.”Screen Shot 2018-06-24 at 18.35.35

Images Marimekko.com

The nine-style collection features tops, dresses, pants, sneakers, and bags. The prints in the collection were inspired by nature and urban lifestyle, including also a new print design specifically chosen to celebrate the Marimekko and UNIQLO collection. All of the prints were designed by Maija Louekari, one of Marimekko’s world-renowned print designers.
Read more: www.uniqlo.com/marimekko

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Sarasa Prints explained

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Printed cotton fabrics were first developed in India during the Indus period 2600—1800 BC, a culture richly skilled in cotton spinning, weaving, dyeing and printing. At this time cotton was completely unknown to Europeans and the Japanese. The Portuguese were probably responsible for developing the trade in printed cotton fabrics during the Age of Discovery in the 15 century.

The name Sarasa derived from the Gujarati word for “excellent” or “beautiful” and was adopted by the traders as the name for these Indian printed cotton fabrics. The trade spread from the middle of the 15th century towards both Europe and the Far East.  These highly patterned cotton chintzes with rich colours were a hit as remember that to many this was a new fibre and cloth that was durable, soft and light.

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Trailing plants and flowers were a dominant theme in the Indian design which reached a pinnacle during the 17th century Mughal period when many artisans from Persia migrated to India and brought with them not only new techniques but also geometric and floral motifs such as Paisley.

In Japan these fabrics were terribley expensive prized by the Daimyo lords and other members of the highly esteemed and trend setting samurai class.  Rather as with Paisley prints in the UK, during the Edo period (1615–1868) demand fueled the development of local production. Imported cotton was dyed and decorated using stenciling techniques exploiting the Japanese skills in paper and blade making for stenciling and the carving of intricate wooden blocks as their Indian counterparts.

Decorative prints and intricately woven fabrics are still a very important part of Japanese textiles today. It seems fitting that we move from a strong print trend for Chinoiserie to Sarasa florals and geometric designs. These will sit perfectly alongside paisleys and make for a rich print season.

We have raided the library and the new collection from Sublitex to find some exciting Sarasa style prints for you

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House of Hackney X & Other Stories

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House of Hackney and & Other Stories are thrilled to introduce a new co-lab collection for SS18. Combining House of Hackney’s decadent prints with & Other Stories’ effortlessly chic silhouettes, the collaboration features ready-to-wear, accessories and shoes that encourage an aesthetic rooted in playfulness and frivolity.

Unsurprisingly, this was the must have collection of the season and it has sold out worldwide since the launch 2 weeks ago but here is a look at the beautifully crafted collection that we are still able to admire from our screens

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Naturally, House of Hackney’s founders, Frieda Gormley and Javvy M Royle, were responsible for picking the prints; mixing up signature floral and zebra stripes in fresh hues of blue, lilac and burnt orange, as well as creating the brand-new ‘tree of life’ foliage design. The duo worked side by side with the & Other Stories team choosing the shapes that worked best and bouncing around various sources of inspiration such as Kate Bush and London street fashion.

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Founders of House of Hackney, Frieda Gormley and Javvy M Royle

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“We love & Other Stories’ silhouettes, print treatments and how meaningful the brand’s social messaging feels. The collection that we created together plays on a heightened version of the colours and shapes found in nature. We were inspired by British psychedelia, vibrant fabrics from our local Ridley Road Market, and the bohemian mood of the Bloomsbury Group,” says Frieda Gormley.

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Feminine and bohemian, the collection is full of laidback dresses and skirts, wide-leg trousers and voluminous blouses as well as bags, shoes and scarves, primarily made in sustainable materials such as TENCEL® and organic cotton. The collection captures a free spirited mood highlighted by the fluid silhouettes that reflect the notion that every woman should enjoy having fun with their wardrobes.

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“House of Hackney transcends trends and plays in a quirky world of their own. We had a lot of fun co-creating a collection that invites women to play more and mix and match fearlessly without any restrictions,” says Anna Nyrén, Head of Colabs, & Other Stories.

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Royle and Gormley, at their east London home, wearing designs from their & Other Stories collection.

 

 

 

Here is a look at some of the gorgeous items in the collection:

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With thanks to the House of Hackney Press team

All images from stories.com and houseofhackney.com