trends

Trend report from Paris

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Having visited both PV Paris and Texworld, I have put together a selection of looks that I thought were interesting and new. We will cover flowers in a separate post and concentrate here on the other areas. These were notably mark making and geometric prints to carry colour and the most prevalent looks based around a strong tropical trend.

Pleated diagonal stripes

Splodge and random colour carrying prints on fabrics with surface interest, some with shots of lurex.

Pleated ombres in pastels to brights in harmonious colours.

Retro geometrics.

Beautiful tropicals with exotic birds.

Wild animals in the jungle around every corner.

Surprising skins that are not as they seem.

Elegant Tropicals in soft vintage colours.

Deep lush Forest with interesting leaves.

Milan Fashion Week SS19

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With major fashion houses such as Gucci, Versace and Dolce and Gabanna gracing the catwalks in Milan, it is becoming the city to watch during the catwalk period. Many of the major designers have changed their approach to design, certainly in terms of print, which has made this event even more exciting.

Gucci

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Known for their beautifully illustrated, all over florals, Gucci have stunned critics by only featuring 4 prints in the whole collection which were animal skins and a very kitsch strawberry print. Is this Gucci’s print identity changing for good?

Philosophy Di Lorenzo Serafini

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Myan inspired patterns were at the heart of this collection alongside some classic snake print. Patterns were mono in colour but placed in interesting ways to add complexity to designs.

Versace

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Versace have had a step change this season with fresh new florals. Pretty disties in brave colourways act as patchworks across garments. Colours are primary and fun.

Etro

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Etro has to be one of the highlights of the season. Traditionally the design house offers a selection of ornate paisleys from head to toe and this season was no different. However, this season included some beautiful florals and mix and match prints which are still in keeping with Etro’s style.

Dolce and Gabanna

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Dolce and Gabanna wowed us again with big digital florals on chiffon and georgette bases. Colours were vibrant and the show was clearly influenced by Frida Khalo with bright floral head dresses and bold colour.

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The safari trend still looms over the catwalks for Spring Summer 19. Salvatore Ferragamo delivers this though tropical prints in soft khakis and browns.

All images from vogue.com

Instagram – @theprintaffair

New York Fashion Week SS19

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Here we take a look at the best of New York fashion week in terms of print. From Oscar de la Renta to Zimmerman, the runway was full of pattern and colour.

Tory Burch

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Tory Burch hit the runway with more scarf prints but this time they had more of an indian influence with paisleys and rich orange tones running through them. Paired back with stripes and ditsies, the collection offered many different print styles.

Self Portrait

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With disties being one of the biggest trends for SS19, Self portrait have delivered a collection of nearly all ditsies. Cut about, varying scales and brave colour combinations make them feel new.

Diane Von Furstenberg

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DVF is always a highly anticipated designer in terms of print and she certainly delivered for SS19. With only 9 looks in total, animal, florals, ditsiesand tile prints were all mix and matched.

Oscar de la Renta

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Moroccan inspired prints are decorated with opulent fringing and intricate conversational create a tapestry across the body. The Oscar de la Renta show for SS19 was a stand out show for us for clever use of colour and print styles.

Carolina Herrera

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Carolina Herrera was a massive injection of colour to the New York runway. Bright coloured grounds with varying scaled floralsis the key message from this show.

Zimmerman

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Decadent paisleys and worn out patchwork prints, Zimmerman was like an indian tapestry pulled apart and redesigned. Slick fashion design acts as a canvas to beautifully intricate prints.

All images from Vogue.com

designandcolour@gmail.com

Instagram – @theprintaffair.com

Antoinette Poisson

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Gucci florals are always beautiful and can be recycled season after season, but this resort show felt even more special. Alessandro Michele, creative director of Gucci, came across the unassuming Parisian company Antoinette Poisson. Michele decided to teamed up with the wallpaper studio to create some of the enchanting prints we saw walk down the runway for the Resort 19 show.

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Vogue.com

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Gucci.com

It’s easy to see why Michele was in awe of the decadent designs of this French atelier. Striking geometrics combined with oriental, detailed florals feels new for the Italian fashion house and certainly adds a difference to their most recent collection.

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Photo by Jason Lloyd-Evans for Wmagazine

About Antoinette Poisson

Founders Julie Stordiau, Jean-Baptiste Martin and Vincent Farelly were working as freelance wallpaper restorers when a project to work with 18th century ‘Domino’ wallpaper arose.

“The paper is made according to traditional 18th century techniques. Jacques Bréjoux who makes our paper collects old linen and hemp clothes from the 18th and 19th century which he shreds into small pieces which are then hammered, put into water and then sieved in order to create a pulp which is dried and pressed”. “It takes approximately one day to print 100 sheets and around one or two minutes per colourper sheet to paint.” Julie Stordiau

https://thegarnered.com/designers/antoinette-poisson

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https://thegarnered.com/designers/antoinette-poisson

“Each hand-painted design is available in the original colourway, as well as a more restrained, modern palette,” Julie Stordiau

https://thegarnered.com/designers/antoinette-poisson

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Photo: © À Paris chez Antoinette Poisson

https://thegarnered.com/designers/antoinette-poisson

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“Hand–blocked and hand-painted, the prints are reproductions of the ‘dominos’ that were once employed to decorate smaller nooks and crannies – lining closets, corridors, boxes and books.” Julie Stordiau

https://thegarnered.com/designers/antoinette-poisson

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https://www.vogue.com/article/gucci-resort-2019-collaboration-with-antoinette-poisson

https://www.antoinettepoisson.com/en/

https://www.instagram.com/antoinettepoisson/

Resort 19 Trends

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As promised, here is a look at some of the key print trends we have taken from the Resort 19 shows. From animal skins to ditsies, scarf placement to psychedelic prints, this season is set to be pattern fuelled and full of colour.

Scarf Prints

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Images Left to Right: Gucci, Valentino, Tibi

The idea of splicing florals with bold stripes and placing prints in a certain manner to create a scarf like layout has been an emerging trend for the last few seasons. Resort shows such as Valentino, Tibi and Gucci are showing matching sets to really emphasize the trend.

Ditsies

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Images left to right: Altuzarra, Preen, Louise Vuitton, Ulla Jhonson

Ditsies are having a revamp this season with bright grounds and print clashing. Mix and match ditsies and combining pretty floralswith sporty stripes is a new way to wear the traditional floral.

Animal

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Images left to right: Alice and Olivia, Roberto Cavalli, Phillip Plein, Victoria Beckham

Animal continues to dominate the shows in all types of form. Resort 19 see’s animal print become a lot more daring with skins such as giraffe and cow coming through. We love the mixture of animal that Roberto Cavalliuses throughout his show combining snake with cow print like the image above.

Checks

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Images left to right: Michael Kors, Tibi, Veronica Beard, Alexa Chung

Bright checks replace dark heritage checks for spring summer. Contrasting scales and colours are key in this trend, mixing 2 or more checks in one outfit offers maximum printed impact. A key show for this trend was Michael Kors with checks across both clothing and accessories.

Psychedelic

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Images left to right: Emilio Pucci, Prada, Etro

Many designers are harking back to a more peaceful, colourful time and displaying prints of wonder and imagination. Designers such as Etro and Emilio Pucci are taking us back to the 60’s with their retro, colour clashing prints and psychedelic pattern which is a very exciting new direction for print design

Paisleys

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Images left to right: Roberto Cavalli, Etro, Roberto Cavalli

As winter boho became such a staple style for AW18, it is only right that paisley pattern and ethnic pattern returns for spring summer. Paisley is seen in all forms, from bright, bold statement paisley’s to wallpaper coverage in dark rich tones for a more transitional look. We love the paisley and scarf combination in the Roberto Cavallishow simply in two tones but in a statement placement.

Type

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Images left to right: Valentino, Versace, Valentino

A slightly more sophisticated way of novelty slogans is present in the resort shows. Branding is back in force but designers are trying to design in ways that text looks part of a non-print like a geo or a stripe to give that added interest.

Scenic

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Images left to right: Oscar de la Renta, No.21, Altuzarra, Christian Dior

From tonal tropical landscapes influenced by traditional ‘Toile de Jouy’ pattern, to hand painted illustrative scenes, the theme of escapism resonates itself through print across the resort collections. Tonal and monochromatic patterns are commercial and stylish for all markets

Safari

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Images left to right: Philipp Plein, Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini, Johanna Ortiz, Johanna Ortiz

As a general theme, Safari styles and prints are saturating the shows and is a must have trend for the season. From rich ochre ground prints to the plethora of true animal skins, we feel as if we are stepping straight into the African savannah with this combination of pattern.

All images from Vogue.com

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The Name Drop

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Versace, Pre Fall 18, Vogue.com

Luxury fashion brands are reviving a trend that encapsulated the 90’s, branding, or as we like to call it, ‘The Name Drop’. Looking forward to AW18, brands such as Valentino, Fendi and Versace are all playing into this look and this is expected to be a big trend from a print perspective. We see logos wrapped around necklines, hems and in studding in accessories. Versace have created an all over print with their micro sized logo and it is worn from head to toe, really emphasizing the significance of this trend re surfacing.

Here we take a look at some of the key brands who have played into this 90’s inspired trend:

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Fendi, Pre Fall 18, Vogue.com

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Versace, Pre Fall 18, Vogue.com

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Altuzarra, Pre Fall 18, Vogue.com

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Emilio Pucci, Pre Fall 18, Vogue.com

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Monse, Pre Fall 18, Vogue.com

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Missoni, Pre Fall 18, Vogue.com

Pantone Colour Of The Year – Ultra Violet

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Pantone.com

The time has come for Pantone, the colour experts, to release their ‘Colour of the Year’ and the shade they have chosen for 2018 is Ultraviolet. They describe that this colour ‘communicates originality, ingenuity, and visionary thinking that points us toward the future’.

The Pantone Color of the Year has come to mean so much more than ‘what’s trending’ in the world of design; it’s truly a reflection of what’s needed in our world today.” – Laurie Pressman, Vice President of the Pantone Color Institute.

This particular colour is not too dissimilar to the new shade of purple they released earlier in the year which was dedicated to the late pop icon, Prince. Purple was synonymous within the musician’s career from the lyrics of Purple Rain to his flamboyant wardrobe to his custom made purple piano.

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[Photo: Richard E. Aaron/Redferns/Getty Images]

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[Images From: Elledecor.com, Pantone.com, @zodiaddicted twitter, cruelvamp.tumblr.com, aestheticofthezodiac.tumblr.com, domino.com, h&m.com]

“When you think about the purples and the complexities of the purple shade, especially once you start veering towards the blue-based purples, there’s that layer of thoughtfulness, of magic and mysticism, of spirituality,” says Laurie Pressman, vice president of the Pantone Color Institute. “What’s needed is this whole infusion of creativity and originality and nonconformity . . . it’s about successfully adapting and moving it forward and pivoting.”

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Pantone.com

With a varying collection of purple shades appearing on the SS18 catwalks, the colour of the year seems to reflect the Catwalk mood. Here is a look at some of the designers that propelled purple back into fashion this year:

Left to Right: Balenciaga, SS18, Paris, vogue.com and Versace, ss18, Imaxtree  

Lilac shades on the catwalk, SS18:

Left to Right: Victoria Beckham, SS18, Vogue.com and Tibi, SS18, vogue.com

https://store.pantone.com/uk/en/color-of-the-year-2018-shop-pantone/

https://www.dezeen.com/2017/12/07/ultra-violet-pantone-colour-of-the-year-2018-design-trends/

https://fashionista.com/2017/12/pantone-2018-color-of-the-year-ultra-violet

https://quartzy.qz.com/1151322/how-pantone-created-a-universal-language-for-color/

https://www.architecturaldigest.com/story/behind-pantone-color-of-the-year-ultra-violet

 

Sherbert

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Some are referring to this as pastels but we prefer the title sherbet. It can be bright, clean and fresh but also softer or more subdued. Next season is very feminine and this youthful palette is very new. Think soft sharp shades of blue, yellow, apricot, pink, lilac and green.

Naomi Harris in flowing shade of sherbet tulle from Gucci at the opening of the Cannes 2017 Film festival.

Photo Rex Daily Telegraph

 

 

Marie Clare UK

Jess Wood this week writes;

Delicate sugared almond shades have shaken off their Hyacinth Bucket connotations and turned themselves into a fashion statement.  Preen’s standout show, inspired by saris and womens’ rights movements, was a masterclass in how to do pretty and powerful – with one-shouldered dresses and draped shapes in delicate shades of palest pink and green.  The big news: lilac, that most Queen Mums-y of shades, is set for a major comeback. Buy a lilac bag now. Or have yourself a scoop of Neapolitan, like Celine’s cream and pink combo.
Read more at

http://www.marieclaire.co.uk/fashion/summer-fashion-trends-2018-553795#XMURMROOPhgAWviL.99

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While Pantone are predicting a bright palette for Spring Summer 2018 for prints. Do look at their reviews and forecasts at pantone.com.

At The Print affair we advocate using as many spheres of influence as possible. You make go soft, brighter or dustier but which ever way you go these new colours are a welcome change.

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Resort 2018

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Alice Grosso – designandcolour@gmail.com

After a steaming week of heat it seems appropriate to look at trends for next year.

There is a definite 1980’s feel going on here and we look forward to wearing unfeasible large metal or colourful plastic earrings with this look. Will big hair and heated rollers be back, as I do not think I have the time these days. Oh for the odour of Ambre Solaire mingled with Elnett Hairspray.

To contrast there are some really elegant florals prints, some with lovely vibrant birds, laid out as all overs, placements or borders. These require a big brimmed finely woven straw hat, mysteriously large sun glasses and made up in loose garments in which one can waft nonchalantly around Antibes.