Making & Unmaking: An exhibition curated by Duro Olowu

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Installation view of Making & Unmaking: An exhibition curated by Duro Olowu at Camden Arts Centre, 2016. Photo: Mark Blower

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Installation view of Making & Unmaking: An exhibition curated by Duro Olowu at Camden Arts Centre, 2016. Photo: Mark Blower.

Making & Unmaking is a show at the Camden Arts Centre, curated by Duro Olowu, and is the latest in the centre’s series of artist-selected shows. The Nigerian fashion designer is famous for his work with bold patterns and shapes.

Throughout the three galleries, the exhibition features over 70 artists from all over the globe:

“Individually, each work has a story to tell; collectively, they begin a conversation in which visual, narrative and thematic relationships unfold. This eclectic collage of works, some of which have strong political undercurrents, addresses issues surrounding cultural identity, sexuality and the representation of the body. Olowu’s exhibition invites a multifaceted journey of encounters with the intuition, skill and vision of the artists represented within it.” – camdenartscentre.org

We visited the show in August and have put together a selection of works that really stood out to us to inspire our readers:

Musclemen Series, 2012, by Leonce Raphael Agbodjelou:

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Anni Albers Red Lines on Blue, 1979, wool:

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Wardell Milan, The Flower No. 6, graphite, charcoal, oil on canvas:

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Photograph: Five Moroccan Women by Irving Penn, 1971:

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Duro Olowu Spring Summer 15:

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Watch the fashion film by Portuguese fashion photographer Luis Monteiro.

 

Images and work all belong to their rightful owners/artists.

Graduate Feature: Networking

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Over the last six weeks of summer, we have been celebrating this year’s graduates’ work of all styles, giving a platform for new designers. We have been reviewing shows from colleges, universities and New Designers in London and have picked our top collections. Each collection has been unique and showed a different set of skills by each of the designers.

In our last week, we look at many different styles of print and texture. An overall theme is networks – networks of the brain, of urban buildings and of people that surround the designer.

Thank you to everybody who has been involved with our first graduate feature, and good luck to all of our graduates with their future endeavors.


Rhiannon Wright

Rhiannon Wright spent the past three years studying Textile Design BA (Hons) at Nottingham Trent University:

Most of my recent projects have been inspired by urban areas within cities and the architecture surrounding it. Layering up unorthodox materials and fabrics, such as perspex and neoprene –  to create a contemporary feel. Artists and designers such as Charlotte Love and Bridget Riley (to name a few) have inspired me throughout my journey and have shown me that simplistic patterns can be effective and dynamic.

I would love to just keep working creatively, maybe within a small screen printing company as its an area I have really loved throughout my time at NTU.

Contact: rhiannonwrightdesigns@outlook.com

See more of her work: @rhiannonwrightdesigns or on her website.

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Chandni Chohan

Chandni Chohan studied Printed Textiles Design at Demontfort University Leicester. Her project is called ‘Beneath the Surface’ and is a collection designed for A/W 2017:

‘Beneath the Surface,’ initially explores the human brain, its organic structures and connections as well as translating the minds emotions into strong marks using gouache paint and a dry brush. Thinking less literally had lead me to look at other connections such as train networks, drawn with fine liner pen, to create a contrast with the organic nature of the brain. This idea then developed into looking at those connections, which are in flocking algorithms and swarm intelligence patterns, which created diversity and depth in my designs.

As a printed textiles designer, I aim to create prints, which are unique yet, contemporary and those, which are in line with the current trends. I use surface techniques such as foiling and flocking sensitively to accent areas of my design and also to give my pieces a finishing touch. I enjoy layering textures and linear drawing, creating contrast between two elements aids my design and ‘Beneath the Surface’ captures the principles of print, scale and placement being considered to create interesting pieces, which fit the market they are designed for.

Beneath the surface being a collection designed for A/W 2017, I was influenced by the designer Jenny Packham, her A/W 2016 collection using sophisticated grey tones with hints of purple and yellow became the basis for my colour palette hence I chose rich grey tones with accents of purple and yellow to create dimension and variety in the collection.

I would love to have a career in designing fashion prints and maybe one day having my own establishment where my designs are made into actual prints on various fashion garments. A long term goal would to be a teacher, teaching the subject of fashion and textiles, supporting future designers and helping their development of creativity and design.

Contact email: chandnichohan1@gmail.com

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Daniela Girgenti

Daniela Girgenti also studied BA Textile design specialising in print at Nottingham Trent University:

My graduate collection originated from my experience working in New York; being emerged with the culture, exploring unseen urban surroundings. I find Inspiration in materials and the interaction between surfaces. My prints depict bold combination of colour with a minimal sporty aesthetic.

Incorporating engraved perspex and digitally printed fabric created a collaboration for bag designs, which were seen down the graduate NTU fashion catwalk and my personal degree show, this inspired my love for contemporary materials and working with accessories.

My year in the industry has shown me that i want to keep gaining more skills and develop my design style with in the fashion industry and the end goal to have my own studio also emerging myself into different cultural experiences from other countries.

Daniela enjoys designing prints and wants to keep doing just that.

Contact Daniela: dgirgenti@hotmail.co.uk

And see more of her work on Instagram: @daniela.designs and her website here.

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Ila Burton

I have just completed A-level Textiles at Strode College, Somerset and will be moving on to the Art Foundation Course in September.

My inspirations come from people, places and things around me, I like to translate my designs into print and then construct the fabric into actual garments using my own fabric as a personal response. The first design below, for example, was inspired by my photographs of light reflections and shadows through a chandelier.

I will be taking a pattern-cutting course during the summer holidays. My intentions are to apply to university next year to study fashion. My aspirations are to carry on creating garments for myself and others, whilst honing my textiles skills and learning new ones.

Contact email: burtonila53@gmail.com

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PLEASE NOTE: These designs are the intellectual property of the artists and as such may not be used or replicated but may be available for purchase direct from the artist.

Graduate Feature: Animal Instinct

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Over the next few weeks, we will be celebrating this year’s graduates’ work of all styles, giving a platform for new designers. We have been reviewing shows from colleges, universities and New Designers in London and have picked our top collections. Each collection is unique and shows a different set of skills by each of the designers.

In our second last week of our graduate summer special, we take a look at three students who use animals and nature in their collections.


Erika Ophelia

Erika Ophelia studied BA (Hons) Fashion Textiles: Print at University for the Creative Arts (UCA Rochester):

My concept ‘Urban Jungle’ is a statement looking at the controversial issues surrounding animals and the way that some human activities can have a negative effect on the natural world. I touched on different topics including nature pollution and deforestation. I have illustrated the relationship between humans and wildlife by using images of both man-made structures and portraits of animals. The goal of my collection was to ultimately create an osmosis between my photography and drawings similar to that between the animal and human world.

Aspirations: Drawing has always been a passion of mine and I hope to build a career in print design and illustration. Ideally I would love to have my own company that creates prints that can be used across a variety of surfaces including fashion and also interior.

Contact Erika: erikaopheliadesigns@gmail.com

And see more of her work on Instagram: @eopheliadesign

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Kirsten Inglis

Kirsten Inglis, from Leeds College of Art, has a fascination for natural history:

I created a range of wallpapers that explore how the philosophies of scientific illustration can be translated into home interiors. The collection seeks to represent animal behaviours through my illustrations and the uses of special binders and inks. My aim is to inspire and encourage an appreciation of the beauty of nature through innovative uses of surface design.

I would like to work towards becoming a senior designer, creating innovative prints and patterns for wallpaper.

Contact email: kirsteninglis@gmail.com

Instagram @: kirsteninglis

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Catriona Kitching

Catriona Kitching studied BA (Hons) Textiles and Surface Design and Cleveland College of Art and Design:

Her inspirations include summer colours, animals and their texture and detail markings. Catriona aspires to be a freelance designer for fashion print.

Contact: catriona1993@hotmail.co.uk

Instagram: catrionalouisedesigns

IMG_3807   screen print floral and tiger stripes

digital lizard and butterfly and markings in foil, hand painted into with dye and pigment   f3f1307c5805731d460d7cf3bb27beda

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PLEASE NOTE: These designs are the intellectual property of the artists and as such may not be used or replicated but may be available for purchase direct from the artist.

Graduate Feature: In Bloom

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Over the next few weeks, we will be celebrating this year’s graduates’ work of all styles, giving a platform for new designers. We have been reviewing shows from colleges, universities and New Designers in London and have picked our top collections. Each collection is unique and shows a different set of skills by each of the designers.

In the second week, we look at designers who have produced different interpretations of floral designs, from bright digital designs to softly painted prints.

Jessica Boynton

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Jessica graduated from BA Hons Textile Design (print and surface pattern design) at Birmingham City University:

My inspiration for my project started from looking at Japanese flower arranging (ikebana) and looking at the flowers that are traditionally used in their arrangements and using this to produce bold and dramatic collection of ‘Japanese Bloom’ designs. My final major project was also about my personal development in illustrative skills and digital work, combining all this to produce commercially viable designs for interior fabrics and wallpapers. Jessica’s skills include hand drawing and painting techniques using a wide range of media and screen/ open screen printing using a range of processes.

In the future, Jessica wants to develop a career in print and surface pattern design:

I’m taking every opportunity given to me following new designers. I have a particular passion for trends, styling and print design.

Contact Jessica: jessicamary3003@gmail.com

See more of her work on her Instagram: @jessicamarytextiles Twitter: @jessicamary3003

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Katie Punton

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Katie studied Printed Textiles and Surface Pattern Design at Leeds College of Art:

My latest collection ‘The Digitally Surreal’ was inspired by my research into digital processes which led to the development of my own unique digital drawing techniques. My collection celebrates everything digital, combining intricate digitally drawn florals and digitised textures to create vibrant prints with a surreal aesthetic.

Fashion has always been a great inspiration for my work. Therefore I would love to be able to work with a well established brand to create beautiful prints. Being able to see my designs in a store is certainly an aspiration.

Contact Katie on: katie_punton@hotmail.co.uk

See more work on her Instagram: @katiepunton_design

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Kate Hardy

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At Bath Spa University, Kate studied Textile Design for Fashion and Interiors and created a beautiful floral collection for interiors:

I am inspired by seasonal flowers I find. Always researching and working to current trends. I work with contrast, for example the palm house at Kew Gardens intertwined with British garden flowers.

I would like to join a design team creating unique prints for textiles to gain experience in the textile industry.

Contact email: khardy567@live.com

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Amy Harris

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Amy’s current collection is based on florals, completing her Art Foundation Course at Strode College:

After researching into traditional floral designs, such as William Morris and Liberty, I decided I wanted to focus on ‘modern’ florals. Using my self-taught Photoshop skills, I created print designs which were inspired by a visit to the Eden project in Cornwall.

This contemporary collection explores the exciting results of transforming and manipulating colour and pattern. A big influence for me is Peter Pilotto and also Mary Katrantzou and Basso & Brooke. I have been inspired by their clashing colours and patterns with a vibrant fresh colour palette. I have created a range of floral prints that can be applied to a wide range of surfaces.

I will be moving to MMU in September to study a Textiles and Surface Design degree. My future plans are to work as a designer within the textiles industry and I am open to where the next few years might take me.

Contact Amy: amylouiseharris397@gmail.com

 

PLEASE NOTE: These designs are the intellectual property of the artists and as such may not be used or replicated but may be available for purchase direct from the artist.

 

 

Graduate Feature: Making Their Mark

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Over the next few weeks, we will be celebrating this year’s graduates’ work of all styles, giving a platform for new designers. We have been reviewing shows from colleges, universities and New Designers in London and have picked our top collections. Each collection is unique and shows a different set of skills by each of the designers.

For our first week, we’ve put together designers who are making their mark, inspired by technology and the urban scene, and different styles and eras of architecture.

Pindi Kaur

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Pindi Kaur studied BA (Hons) Textile Design at De Montfort University:

I am textiles designer, specialising in printed textiles. I created a collection called ‘Transmit’ where the concept was based on technology and focusing on intricate details of computer chips, broken electronic devices, and the strong mark marking of sound waves and electrical currents. In terms of my design direction, I am attracted to strong structures, crisp lines and abstract shapes with fine detail, which overlap onto textures. I enjoy layering medias together by combining digital printing with layers of screen printing on top, as well as being able to experiment, by altering the scale of patterns and manipulating the surface of fabrics with pigments and the technique of foiling. Pindi wants to continue on designing, to create collections, as well as focusing on pursing a career in merchandising.

Contact Pindi: pindikaur_@hotmail.com

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Sophie Wade

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Sophie’s final collection was inspired by the Barbican estate in London. She studied Textile Design (BA Hons) at Nottingham Trent University:

I wanted to challenge the aesthetic of this brutal, concrete utopia and make it contemporary and wearable for fashion fabrics. I loved building a strong concept for my final project and building a particular look and style. Although my work is predominately digital, I am very hands on in the first stages of design. I like to use many different types of media in my sketchbook work and create quite textural, collaged pieces of work before scanning in and developing the designs.

Sophie is starting at the Next head office in a few weeks in Leicester as a Trainee Buyer for Home:

Slightly different to my final project as I was taken down the fashion route, but I have always seen myself working for homewares and I’m really excited to work for a company like Next who are so involved with design and fashion to keep me in the loop!

Contact Sophie: sophiewade26@gmail.com

See more of her work on her Instagram: @sewtextiles

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Charlotte Gibson

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Charlotte Gibson was also inspired by architecture for her final project on Textile Design at De Montfort University:

Architecture is hugely influencing my approach right now, the idea of symmetry and balance in grid like forms, teamed with light and shadow. This concept is based around the Bauhaus style and its influence in modern design. As a designer my style automatically veers towards Art Deco style and I wanted to give my collection a contemporary twist by carefully selecting the right colour ways and scale without it looking too retro.

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‘Beauty is the harmony of purpose and form’

I have always been interested in how I inhabit spaces and how I can change them to feel more aesthetic. I want to design what I love. If I can indulge myself into a creative process and spread this emotion and beauty through interior textile design alone then I have done something right. This is where I want to be. This is where I will be.

Contact Charlotte: charlottemaydesign1@gmail.com

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Jessica Ellwood

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Jessica Ellwood studied Textile Design BA (Hons) at Nottingham Trent University and has also been inspired by the urban world:

My inspiration comes from materials which make up the urban environment, responding to how metal warps and rusts over time, or how concrete weathers and decays. Likewise, I love to explore fabric, and its potentials in line with print. I like to ask questions about print – what would happen if I pleat this? How can I create this texture on a flat surface?

I would like to technically develop my screen printing skills – my dream would be to work in a small, creative studio where I can work alongside other like-minded people. Running my own studio is something I would love to do!

Contact Jessica at : jessicaellwood@live.com

And see more of her work on her Instagram: @jessellwoodprints

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PLEASE NOTE: These designs are the intellectual property of the artists and as such may not be used or replicated but may be available for purchase direct from the artist.

 

Riviera Style

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This week we are bringing you a swimwear special, thanks to the warm weather. We are throwing it back to last summer, with the Riviera Style: Resort & Swimwear Since 1900 exhibition which was shown at The Fashion & Textile Museum, London. So if you need some swimwear inspiration for next week in Ibiza, you have come to the right place!

“From the English seaside to the Côte d’Azur and California, Riviera Style celebrates fashion at its most fun.”

Covering everything for the beach from swimsuits, cover-ups, sarongs and even beach pyjamas, Riviera Style takes us through a timeline of 100 years of swimwear.

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The exhibition first takes us time travelling back to Edwardian bathing dresses, designed to keep the wearer covered up and modest.

The 1920s and 30s saw a more relaxed attitude for swimwear, with more skin on show. As rules, such as the law that required men to cover their torsos, were relaxed, we saw two pieces become available for women and detachable torso pieces for men. Elastic based threads in the 1930s were introduced, replacing knitted wool based pieces.

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In the late 1930s and 40s, beach pyjamas were loose and bright, keeping women stylish at the end of a long day on the sand.

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Partnership with King & McGaw

“King & McGaw, the online art print store, has curated a display of Riviera-inspired prints to accompany the Riviera Style exhibition. Selected from the archives of British Vogue, P&O Heritage and National Railway Museum, the prints celebrate fashion and travel from the 1930s to 1960s.”

These photographs are by famous photographers for Vogue such as Henry Clarke, Don Honeyman and Laurence Le Guay in the 1950s and 60s.

You can see more amazing vintage posters with the book ‘Vintage Travel Posters: Going Places In Style’ by Patience Coster.

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Thanks to the use of elastane in the 1960s, pieces became more structured and wide range of styles became available, suiting a wide range of sizes, in bright colours and vibrant prints.

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“During the 1960s and 70s, pattern predominated with psychedelic prints in acid colours. Palazzo pants and other resort wear with designs by Emilio Pucci are particularly noteworthy.” – F&T Museum

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Dress by Emilio Pucci and Samuel Sherman

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1960s cotton trunks

The fabrics on show were beautiful, ranging from older, specially knitted pieces to more modern printed designs.

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European Quiz

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As we hit the mid week hump, The Print Affair are here to cheer you up. Grab a coffee and entertain yourself on your break by matching these famous fashion houses to the correct designers or founders. Can you also remember which European country these designers are from?

Pictures are from the designers’ Autumn Winter 2016/2017 shows from Vogue.

1.

jaunpaulgaultier

2.

dolceandgabbana

3.

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4.

maryk

5.

balenciaga

6.

peterpilotto

Designers

A.

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B.

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C.

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D.

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E.

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F.

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Answers

1. = F. Jean Paul Gaultier, who is French

2. = D. Domenico Dolce & Stefano Gabbana, who are Italian

3. = B. Dries Van Noten, who is Belgian

4. = E. Mary Katrantzou is Greek

5. = C. Cristóbal Balenciaga is Spanish

6. = A. Peter Pilotto was a slight trick – they are London based but owned by two designers. Pilotto is Austrian/Italian and his partner Christopher de Vos is Peruvian and Belgian.

2017 Collections

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The most recent catwalks have been filled with print – here we bring you a brief introduction to our favourites from Moschino, Gucci and more.

Valentino

Valentino is going to be our main summer inspiration – pineapples, palm trees and bright florals covered full skirts and summer dresses. The collection was inspired by Cuba – spot the white ginger lilies, Cuba’s national flower.

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Moschino

Jeremy Scott’s new collection did not disappoint. Both the Spring ‘17 Menswear and Resort ‘17 collections were bright and fun. Psychedelic, kaleidoscope and animal prints filled the catwalk and the whole show was a feast for the eyes.

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Dolce & Gabbana

Dolce & Gabbana’s collection was called “DG Musica”. You can see the musical hints through the collection, with instruments and piano players printed onto suits and bomber jackets. Pineapples were also featured; a hot print for summer which is clearly here to stay!

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Gucci

The Gucci Resort 2017 Show was held at Westminster Abbey. Alessandro Michele, creative director of Gucci, was extremely inspired by the gothic building. We loved the Victorian-esque floral dresses and co-ords.

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Images from Vogue.