Introducing khaki, tabacco, teals and spice colours into prints with a more abstract approach to camouflage, skins, painterly effects, toiles and florals.
We have been busy colouring designs in “Bright Pastels” which appears to be a case of tautology to the uninitiated. After some discussion we figured out that this was clean pastel shades that were then brightened up a touch which recalled the Florida designer Lilly Pulitzer.
Much like Mary Quant, this designer rose to fame in the 1960’s, born in New New State, her mother was the heiress to the “Standard Oil” fortune and the young Lilly went to school Jacqueline Kennedy. Her prints were extraordinary and fun aimed at the new young and fashionable set.
Lilly married Peter Pulitzer, of the Pulitzer prize family, and shortly after settled in Palm Springs , Florida. They owned several orange groves and with the produce from the groves, she opened a fruit juice stand in Palm Beach. She found that squeezing juice made a mess of her clothes and seeking to camouflage the juice stains, she designed a sleeveless shift made of bright, colourful printed cotton. She discovered that her customers loved her dresses, so she produced more to sell at her juice stand. Eventually, she was selling more dresses than juice, and decided to focus on designing and selling what had now become known as her “Lillys”.
In 1959 Lilly founded her own company, Lilly Pulitzer, Inc. with the company’s main factory in Miami. The printed fabrics were produced by the Key West Hand Print Fabrics company. From the 1960s to the early 1980s, Pulitzer’s bright, colourful clothes were very popular, worn by the elite after Jackie Kennedy was featured in Life Magazine in one of Lilly’s famous shifts dresses. The Jacqueline dress is one of Lilly Pulitzer’s most successful styles. By 1984, Lilly closed down the entire clothing operation as interest waned.
In 1993, the rights to the brand were purchased by Sugartown Worldwide, Inc. Pulitzer was not involved in the day-to-day administration of the company, but she continued to serve in the role of creative consultant, approving new designs, fabrics, and collections, and branching out into other product lines. On April 7, 2013, aged 81, Lilly passed away but the company she founded continues with the same bright summery prints, suitable for Florida and following her motto that “It’s always summer somewhere.”
Lilly Pulitzer 2019. All photos thanks to Lilypolitzer.com
“Fashion is not frivolous; it is part of being alive today” Mary Quant.
Quant at home on 1965. Photo: Keystone. http://www.telegraph.co.uk
Free your thoughts; don’t be confined by convention.
In the 1950s, fashion designer Mary Quant conquered the globe with the launch of the miniskirt, which would have been unthinkable before that time. Her original ideas and boundless curiosity had a big influence on the role of women in contemporary society.
Be free, be yourself. This spirit is part of our brand, and it will never change. <maryquant.co.uk>
Photo: Alamy http://www.vogue.co.uk
On 6th April 2019, the V&A will open the first international retrospective on the iconic fashion designer Dame Mary Quant. The exhibition will explore the years between 1955 and 1975, when Quant revolutionised the high street, harnessing the youthful spirit of the sixties and new mass production techniques to create a new look for women.
Quant personified the energy and fun of swinging London; and was a powerful role model for the working woman. Challenging conventions, she popularised the miniskirt, colourful tights, and tailored trousers – encouraging a new age of feminism. The mini skirt would go on to become an icon of the time and spark a new creative scene in London and beyond.
The V&A exhibition Credit: Julian Simmonds
From small boutique to international label, Quant revolutionised British fashion with energy, flair and rebellion. Mary Quant at the V&A will feature never before seen designs and provide an unrivalled insight into the career of one of Britain’s most revolutionary and important fashion designers.
telegraph.co.uk Credit: Michael Putland/Getty Images
From miniskirts and hot pants to vibrant tights and makeup, discover how Mary Quant launched a fashion revolution on the British high street, with over 200 garments and accessories, including unseen pieces from the designer’s personal archive.
http://www.telegraph.co.uk Credit: PA Wire
“The whole point of fashion is to make fashionable clothes available to everyone.” Mary Quant
Twiggy: 1967. Credit: Cecil Beaton vogue.co.uk. Credit: Getty Images vogue.co.uk
Photographed by Just Jaeckin for Vogue’s April 1967 issue. Photo Credit: Just Jaeckin.
Authentic fine art replicas from Allyson McDermott’s archive.
The concept of ‘Chinese’ wallpapers originally came not from the East but from 18th Century Europe, with its passion for all things Oriental. Whether printed or hand painted, they brought an explosion of jewel-rich colour and naturalistic design to the smartest 18th Century walls. Chinoiserie hit yet another fashion peak in the 19th Century, inspired by The Royal Pavilion in Brighton and some of most opulent wall decorations ever seen.
Allyson McDermott has restored many important examples of 18th and 19th Century hand painted Chinoiserie papers in locations including The Royal Pavilion and Belvoir Castle… Inspired by these, she has now launched her own collection of authentic fine art replicas, recreated from her studio archive.
The Kings Suite, Belvoir Castle, Leicestershire / Tim Stephen
Printed to order in Allyson’s Gloucestershire studio, they use water based pigment inks and the highest quality acid free ‘Kozo’, a specialist traditional oriental paper. Capturing all the charm and subtlety of the hand painted originals, her Chinoiserie wallpapers and panels are individually produced to order, in bespoke sizes and colours. The finish too is bespoke, ranging from ‘as new’ to gently faded and distressed, giving an authentically antique look.
Allyson has restored many important examples of 18th and 19th Century hand painted Chinoiserie papers in locations including The Royal Pavilion and Belvoir Castle, etc. Inspired by these, she has now launched her own collection of authentic fine art replicas, recreated from her studio archive. Gingko Garden available to order.
Chinese Garden – Available to Order
All images and content provided by Allyson McDermott
Please visit for further information and greater fascination: http://www.allysonmcdermott.com/chinoiserie
Forget colour blocking, now it’s all about the pattern blocking!
Why choose one print when you can have two? Kitri Studio have combined bold naive florals with statement polka dots to bring a fresh take on this season’s hottest trend: patchwork prints!
Rixo collection mixing florals and polka dots. Weather it’s a dress or styled with a skirt and top the trend for ‘pre-clashing clothes’ and pattern blocking is building up force.
Mixing Polka dots and florals from high end designers to high street. Above are some examples from ASOS and Richard Quinn.
On the A/W 2018 catwalk the half and half print was popular with Marni and in their Spring/Summer 2019 collection Sacai combined different clashing prints within garments.
Marni a/w 2018 on Vogue.co.uk
Richard Quinn Spring 2019 Ready To Wear on Vogue.co.uk
Sacai s/s 2019 on Vogue.co.uk
Wanting to bring some energy into your interior spaces?
Well, here are some trend-led Print suggestions from SUBLITEX.
‘In an era of uncertainty, political instability and environmental problems, we satisfy our need for optimism, escapism and creativity with playful activities. Playing helps us find meaning in the midst of chaos’
‘People escape everyday life by creating futuristic worlds. They engage with a technology that enables them to have deeper, more sustainable experiences in daily life. The result is digital tactility’
Pronounced “twall Der J’oui”
not Ju – eee or Joo
Toile meaning linen or cotton canvas
Jouy as in the place Jouy-en-Josasin France where they first started using gravure copper plates over wooden blocks to print fine line pastoral scenes in single colours onto off white ground fabrics for home furnishings including wall and drapery fabric.
This is a strong new trend where the original version is now open to a more modern interpretation. This includes the introduction of more coloursand less pastoral scenes including tropical foliage, birds and chinoiserie. Sublitex have a variety of styles and in some cases the same design in different sizes. The print can be simple and monochromatic or jazzed up with a bit of texture to look more antiquated and vintage or some bolder multi – colours introduced.
Try and pronounce this correctly as explained above as there are so many mis-understandings in our industry as to the correct name and pronunciation.
Happy Holidays and New Year from the new look theprintaffair.com