Lily Pulitzer

We have been busy colouring designs in “Bright Pastels” which appears to be a case of tautology to the uninitiated. After some discussion we figured out that this was clean pastel shades that were then brightened up a touch which recalled the Florida designer Lilly Pulitzer.

Much like Mary Quant, this designer rose to fame in the 1960’s, born in New New State, her mother was the heiress to the “Standard Oil” fortune and the young Lilly went to school Jacqueline Kennedy. Her prints were extraordinary and fun aimed at the new young and fashionable set.

Lilly married Peter Pulitzer, of the Pulitzer prize family, and shortly after settled in  Palm Springs , Florida. They owned several orange groves and with the produce from the groves, she opened a fruit juice stand in Palm Beach. She found that squeezing juice made a mess of her clothes and seeking to camouflage the juice stains, she designed a sleeveless shift made of bright, colourful printed cotton. She discovered that her customers loved her dresses, so she produced more to sell at her juice stand. Eventually, she was selling more dresses than juice, and decided to focus on designing and selling what had now become known as her “Lillys”.

In 1959 Lilly founded her own company, Lilly Pulitzer, Inc. with the company’s main factory in Miami. The printed fabrics were produced by the Key West Hand Print Fabrics company. From the 1960s to the early 1980s, Pulitzer’s bright, colourful clothes were very popular, worn by the elite after Jackie Kennedy was featured in Life Magazine in one of Lilly’s famous shifts dresses. The Jacqueline dress is one of Lilly Pulitzer’s most successful styles. By 1984, Lilly closed down the entire clothing operation as interest waned.

In 1993, the rights to the brand were purchased by Sugartown Worldwide, Inc. Pulitzer was not involved in the day-to-day administration of the company, but she continued to serve in the role of creative consultant, approving new designs, fabrics, and collections, and branching out into other product lines. On April 7, 2013, aged 81, Lilly passed away but the company she founded continues with the same bright summery prints, suitable for Florida and following her motto that  “It’s always summer somewhere.”

Lilly Pulitzer 2019. All photos thanks to Lilypolitzer.com

 

lilly pulitzer 2019

Mary Quant V&A Exhibition

Fashion is not frivolous; it is part of being alive today” Mary Quant.

telegraph.co.uk

Quant at home on 1965. Photo: Keystone. http://www.telegraph.co.uk

Free your thoughts; don’t be confined by convention.

In the 1950s, fashion designer Mary Quant conquered the globe with the launch of the miniskirt, which would have been unthinkable before that time. Her original ideas and boundless curiosity had a big influence on the role of women in contemporary society.

Be free, be yourself. This spirit is part of our brand, and it will never change. <maryquant.co.uk>

mary quant bus credit-ALAMY

Photo: Alamy http://www.vogue.co.uk

On 6th April 2019, the V&A will open the first international retrospective on the iconic fashion designer Dame Mary Quant. The exhibition will explore the years between 1955 and 1975, when Quant revolutionised the high street, harnessing the youthful spirit of the sixties and new mass production techniques to create a new look for women.

Quant personified the energy and fun of swinging London; and was a powerful role model for the working woman. Challenging conventions, she popularised the miniskirt, colourful tights, and tailored trousers – encouraging a new age of feminism. The mini skirt would go on to become an icon of the time and spark a new creative scene in London and beyond.

mary quant.telegraph.co.uk

The V&A exhibition Credit: Julian Simmonds

From small boutique to international label, Quant revolutionised British fashion with energy, flair and rebellion. Mary Quant at the V&A will feature never before seen designs and provide an unrivalled insight into the career of one of Britain’s most revolutionary and important fashion designers.

https://www.instagram.com/maryquant_official/

telegraph.co.uk Credit: Michael Putland/Getty Images

From miniskirts and hot pants to vibrant tights and makeup, discover how Mary Quant launched a fashion revolution on the British high street, with over 200 garments and accessories, including unseen pieces from the designer’s personal archive.

telegraph CREDIT- PA WIRE

http://www.telegraph.co.uk  Credit: PA Wire

“The whole point of fashion is to make fashionable clothes available to everyone.” Mary Quant

Twiggy: 1967. Credit: Cecil Beaton vogue.co.uk.           Credit: Getty Images vogue.co.uk

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http://www.medium.com/@namanpalsingh/mary-quant-the-revolutioniser

twiggy-vogue-19jan15-1967-april-just-jaeckin_b

Photographed by Just Jaeckin for Vogue’s April 1967 issue. Photo Credit: Just Jaeckin.

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http://www.medium.com/@namanpalsingh/mary-quant-the-revolutioniser

Clashing Prints

Forget colour blocking, now it’s all about the pattern blocking!

Why choose one print when you can have two? Kitri Studio have combined bold naive florals with statement polka dots to bring a fresh take on this season’s hottest trend: patchwork prints!

instagram.com/kitristudio/

Rixo collection mixing florals and polka dots. Weather it’s a dress or styled with a skirt and top the trend for ‘pre-clashing clothes’ and pattern blocking is building up force.

Rixo

instagram.com/rixo/

farfetch.com                                   rixo.co.uk

Mixing Polka dots and florals from high end designers to high street. Above are some examples from ASOS and Richard Quinn.

Asos.com                                                       Matchesfashion.com

On the A/W 2018 catwalk the half and half print was popular with Marni and in their Spring/Summer 2019 collection Sacai combined different clashing prints within garments.

marni a:w2018

 

Marni a/w 2018 on Vogue.co.uk

richard quin spring 2019 rtw

Richard Quinn Spring 2019 Ready To Wear on Vogue.co.uk

Sacai s/s 2019 on Vogue.co.uk

 

Trend report from Paris

Having visited both PV Paris and Texworld, I have put together a selection of looks that I thought were interesting and new. We will cover flowers in a separate post and concentrate here on the other areas. These were notably mark making and geometric prints to carry colour and the most prevalent looks based around a strong tropical trend.

Pleated diagonal stripes

Splodge and random colour carrying prints on fabrics with surface interest, some with shots of lurex.

Pleated ombres in pastels to brights in harmonious colours.

Retro geometrics.

Beautiful tropicals with exotic birds.

Wild animals in the jungle around every corner.

Surprising skins that are not as they seem.

Elegant Tropicals in soft vintage colours.

Deep lush Forest with interesting leaves.

Dior Tie Dyes

Lightness, fluidity and femininity – the story for Dior’s most recent collection. Muted tones bleeding into more saturated hues, the collection of beautifully executed tie dye prints has really put Dior back on the map as a leading  originator of print trend.1

Photos: Courtesy of Dior

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https://www.vogue.co.uk/article/christian-dior-spring-summer-2019-collection

Sublitex have an extensive library of tie dye prints that they have coloured to reflect the colour trend exploited by Dior.

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Butterflies

Last year we were all fruity and this year we are re- visiting the British favourite flying insect. The look ranges from very realistic groups, diaphanous more abstract clouds, botanical to a more folkorique approach. Whatever your preference Sublitex have looks suitable for blouses through to the staple holiday maxi dress.12

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Rixo

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2Founders Henrietta Rix and Orlagh McCloskey, have started one of the hottest print focused ready to wear brands in recent years. Rixo is everywhere and everyone is talking about it. Starting in 2015, the brand has rocketed to premium stockists such as Liberty, Selfridges and Net a Porter.

 

Taking influence from gorgeous, eccentric vintage clothes but making them accessible and wearable for the modern day customer.

Photo: Henrietta Rix and Orlagh at their South London studio, Rixo.com

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All of the Rixo prints are lovingly hand painted in their design studio and are all unique. Taking majority of their influence from bold vintage pattern, the brand manage to create very lively and creative prints from coloured animal, to clashing florals.

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Critics have noticed them for their clever use of colourand combination of prints in any one collection. They have now secured themselves a spot in the fashion week line up.

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With a healthy amount of celebrity endorsement from the likes of Emma Connolly, Freddie Harrel, Holly Wiloughbyand Dolly Alderton, Rixois now seen to be the must have brand in your wardrobe.

Here is a look at some of the most recent collections from Rixo:

Resort 19 – Romance in Rebellion

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AW18 Studio 54

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AW18 Disco Daze

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Rixo separate their products on their website by print stories which is great if the print is the main focus of your garment.1112

https://www.rixo.co.uk

Instagram- @rixo

Instagram – @theprintaffair

Toile de Jouy

Pronounced “twall Der J’oui”

not  étoile

not Ju – eee or Joo

Toile meaning linen or cotton canvas

Jouy as in the place Jouy-en-Josasin France where they first started using gravure copper plates over wooden blocks to print fine line pastoral scenes in single colours onto off white ground fabrics for home furnishings including wall and drapery fabric.

This is a strong new trend where the original version is now open to a more modern interpretation. This includes the introduction of more coloursand less pastoral scenes  including tropical foliage, birds and chinoiserie. Sublitex have a variety of styles and in some cases the same design in different sizes. The print can be simple and monochromatic or jazzed up with a bit of texture to look more antiquated and vintage or some bolder multi – colours introduced.

Try and pronounce this correctly as explained above as there are so many mis-understandings in our industry as to the correct name and pronunciation.

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