Milan Fashion Week SS19

With major fashion houses such as Gucci, Versace and Dolce and Gabanna gracing the catwalks in Milan, it is becoming the city to watch during the catwalk period. Many of the major designers have changed their approach to design, certainly in terms of print, which has made this event even more exciting.

Gucci

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Known for their beautifully illustrated, all over florals, Gucci have stunned critics by only featuring 4 prints in the whole collection which were animal skins and a very kitsch strawberry print. Is this Gucci’s print identity changing for good?

Philosophy Di Lorenzo Serafini

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Myan inspired patterns were at the heart of this collection alongside some classic snake print. Patterns were mono in colour but placed in interesting ways to add complexity to designs.

Versace

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Versace have had a step change this season with fresh new florals. Pretty disties in brave colourways act as patchworks across garments. Colours are primary and fun.

Etro

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Etro has to be one of the highlights of the season. Traditionally the design house offers a selection of ornate paisleys from head to toe and this season was no different. However, this season included some beautiful florals and mix and match prints which are still in keeping with Etro’s style.

Dolce and Gabanna

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Dolce and Gabanna wowed us again with big digital florals on chiffon and georgette bases. Colours were vibrant and the show was clearly influenced by Frida Khalo with bright floral head dresses and bold colour.

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The safari trend still looms over the catwalks for Spring Summer 19. Salvatore Ferragamo delivers this though tropical prints in soft khakis and browns.

All images from vogue.com

Instagram – @theprintaffair

New York Fashion Week SS19

Here we take a look at the best of New York fashion week in terms of print. From Oscar de la Renta to Zimmerman, the runway was full of pattern and colour.

Tory Burch

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Tory Burch hit the runway with more scarf prints but this time they had more of an indian influence with paisleys and rich orange tones running through them. Paired back with stripes and ditsies, the collection offered many different print styles.

Self Portrait

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With disties being one of the biggest trends for SS19, Self portrait have delivered a collection of nearly all ditsies. Cut about, varying scales and brave colour combinations make them feel new.

Diane Von Furstenberg

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DVF is always a highly anticipated designer in terms of print and she certainly delivered for SS19. With only 9 looks in total, animal, florals, ditsiesand tile prints were all mix and matched.

Oscar de la Renta

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Moroccan inspired prints are decorated with opulent fringing and intricate conversational create a tapestry across the body. The Oscar de la Renta show for SS19 was a stand out show for us for clever use of colour and print styles.

Carolina Herrera

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Carolina Herrera was a massive injection of colour to the New York runway. Bright coloured grounds with varying scaled floralsis the key message from this show.

Zimmerman

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Decadent paisleys and worn out patchwork prints, Zimmerman was like an indian tapestry pulled apart and redesigned. Slick fashion design acts as a canvas to beautifully intricate prints.

All images from Vogue.com

designandcolour@gmail.com

Instagram – @theprintaffair.com

London Fashion Week SS19

Here is a run down of our favourite designers from London Fashion Week SS19 in terms of print and pattern

Erdem

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Erdem stayed true to their brand identity with moody, dramatic florals taking center stage even in their high summer collection. Ditsies accompanied larger scale, photographic florals to give the collection some calm.

Burberry

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Burberry have moved on their classic check and have evolved it to a stripe that sculpts around the body. To sit alongside this, they have gone animal crazy with cow, tiger and leopard print.

Preen by Thornton Bregazzi

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Preen have experimented with all types of florals for SS19. Traditional wallpaper patterns to scattered ditsies, the collection celebrates the combination of them all.

House of Holland

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Bold colour combinations sit upon snake skin designs in the newest drop for Henry Holland. Type is also used as another angle, continuing the trend from resort collections.

Temperley London

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Clever placement and interesting shapes, each printed outfit in the Temperley London collection is a piece of art in its own right. A beautiful soft colour pallet to match, this collection feels fresh and new.

Marcus Lupfer

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The Marcus Lupfer show just illustrates the importance of disties this season. From bright coloured grounds to pretty pastel arrangements, we love all of the above and think its going to be a massive trend for the season ahead.

Richard Quinn

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Mixing vintage roses with hibiscus filled tropicals, Richard Quinn has taken a more commercial approach to his work for this collection. Known for his recycling of liberty prints, Quinn offers more contemporary prints and large, impressive scales.

 

All Images from Vogue.com

Instagram – @theprintaffair

 

Comics and Conversationals

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Prada started the revival of the comic strip print but now we are seeing all sorts of conversational prints emerging. The look is fun and many styles are great for transitional. This time we are casting the animals aside and going with the vintage travel theme which covers a broader market sector and avoids looking too juvenile.

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Comic Strips

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1950s Nostalgia

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Roadtrip

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Bon voyage

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Let’s get away

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Ships Ahoy

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Fruity

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Fur and Feathers

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Playful and Colourful

London Fashion Week Fall 2018

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Richard Quinn Fall 18 backstage, The Impression

London Fashion Week was truly one to remember for Fall 18. A city renowned for its design flare and new talent in the fashion, even Queen Elizabeth thought it was worth being a part of and made her first appearance at LFW. Her Majesty awarded print focused fashion designer Richard Quinn with The Queen Elizabeth II Award for British Design.

Her Majesty taking in all the great print at the Richard Quinn show, Vogue.com

Alongside all of the LFW front page news, print is continuing to take center stage on the catwalks and varying in all kind of ways. With previous seasons being dominated by florals, AW18 collections are seeing many other print trends emerging.

Here is a look at some of the newness that we spotted coming off the catwalk:

Print Mix

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Left to right – Peter Pilotto, Natasha Zinko, Richard Quinn, Simone Rocha

Splicing, garment reconstruction and merging patterns, all kinds of prints are found on any one garment on the runway. We especially love the combination of florals with checks as this feels really new and different.

Animal

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Left to right – Ports 1961, Halpern, Preen, Emilia Wickstead

One of the biggest print trends of the season, Animal, can be found in a safari of different skins; snake, cow, leopard, tiger to name just a few.

Spots

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Left to right – Richard Quinn, Temperley London, Mother of Pearl, Delpozo

Spots are all everywhere and the newest way to wear spots seems to be the varied combination of scales and plays on negative and positive juxtapositioning.

Bright Florals

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Left to right – Richard Quinn, Osman, Alice Archer, Osman

Despite this being an Autumn/Winter catwalk, florals continue from the summer to be bright and fun. It is going to be important for print to still be vibrant in the winter months allowing fashion to be optimistic all year around.

Checks

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Left to right – Emilia Wickstead, Fashion East, Rejina Pyo, Marta Jakubowski

With checks being the main print focus of the Versace show in Milan, London was also drenched in checks. Pink and red colourways seem to be prominen. We love the combination of different colours of the same checks in one outfit by Marta Jakubowski.

Stripes

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Left to right – JW Anderson, JW Anderson, Emilia Wickstead, Temperley London

Stripes continue to dominate the catwalks in all forms from cut about, diagonal, variegated and in many different colour combinations. JW Anderson show the amazing contrast between bold varsity style stripes against place, variegated bright stripes.

All images from Vogue.co.uk

Tangerine

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Our new favourite colour for next season is tangerine. It is a cheerful shade with a retro feel that we have not seen for sometime. When used as a ground colour the range is from a soft pastel hue to a bold shiny statement. In other prints it is used purely as an accent. As ever the neighbouring colours are then toned towards this palette with both the yellow and reds moving towards orange.

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photo from Dolce & Gabbana catwalks

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Photo Rosie Assoulin

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Photo Ungaro

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For Restless Sleepers

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Diane von Furstenberg

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Etro

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Desigual

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Aspesi

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Dries Van Noten

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Versace SS18

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Marking 20 years since the brutal murder of Gianni Versace, his sister Donatella Versace orchestrated a collection celebrating his most iconic looks. Drawing focus to his life and not his tragic death, the collection is bright, vibrant and everything and more of what you could expect from a Versace show.

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Gianni and Donatella Versace in New York in the 1990s: ‘Gianni was all about joy, and so full of life’. Photograph: Rose Hartman/Getty Images

The collection saw old prints revived from the Versace archive from the years of 1991-95. His most iconic and visually inspiring collections were born in this period including : Vogue, Warhol, My Friend Elton, Icons, Baroque, Animalia, Native Americans, Tresor de la Mer, Metal Mesh, and Butterflies.

Versace SS18 ready to wear collection. Vogue.com

“Gianni was joy, he was happiness, full of life; and these prints were a big part of his personality,” Donatella Versace

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Versace SS18 ready to wear collection. Vogue.com

Reinterpreting old prints into different silhouettes and fabrics gave the collection a futuristic feel. The combination of his statement baroque prints with thigh high boots and coordinating jackets plummets this collection forward into the 21st centaury and bang on trend aside all of the other fashion week collections.

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Versace SS18 ready to wear collection. Vogue.com

“In one show you can’t really touch on everything Gianni did.” Donatella Versace

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Versace SS18 ready to wear collection. Vogue.com8

Vogue, April 1995; Versace Spring 2018. Photos: Steven Meisel; Indigital.tv

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Left to Right: Versace March 1992; Versace Spring 2018. Photos: Patrick Demarchelier; Indigital.tv

Cindy Crawford & Linda Evangelista backstage at Versace S/S 1992

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Versace S/S1995

The beautiful homage to his work was concluded with a few friends from Versace’s most definitive era, adorned in gold lame floor length gowns. Supermodels Cindy Crawford, Naomi Campbell, Claudia Schiffer, Carla Bruni, and Helena Christensen strolled down the catwalk hand in hand to the anthem ‘Freedom’ by the late George Michael, which seemed like a perfect way to mark 20 years since her brothers death and a way to celebrate such an iconic era for fashion.11

Finale to the Versace SS18 ready to wear collection. Donatella Versace in center. Vogue.com

Sublitex’s hommage to Gianni Versace:

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Watch the full collection here:

https://dp8hsntg6do36.cloudfront.net/59c5671e148bb00f1d000019/1822e689-83d9-4ce1-aded-4e5ee3fa0464manifest-ios.m3u8?requester=oo

https://www.vogue.com/article/milan-fashion-week-spring-2017-gianni-versace-donatella-versace-tribute-supermodels-from-the-archives

https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2018-ready-to-wear/versacewww.Versace.com

 

London Fashion Week

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Overall the print direction for SS2018 is most definitely still floral. The fabrics range from diaphanous sheers to crisp sateen. Colour palettes are contrasting from the gentlest muted pastels to bold statements in yellow, cobalt, red, orange and magenta. The mix and match of these two get really exciting when a pastel ground is super imposed with bright blooms or a muted toned patchwork has a shocking vibrant splash of colour breathing life into the piece.

All images thanks to Vogue.co.uk

Roberta Einer

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Roberta Einer was selected as an “emerging designer” in 2016 and has been a vibrant and exciting name on the catwalk ever since. We love her collection and the whole way it has been styled with a lots of mark making and beautiful muted tones.

 

Richard Quinn

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This is strong collection for print from RQ. The show itself was held in Liberty and Richard collaborated with Anna Buruma, head of Liberty archives, to use and adapt their prints for this collection. He blew up ditsies to be really large scale and manipulated them so that they are almost unrecognizable.

 

Mary Katranzou

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“I’m an 80’s Baby “ was the inspiration behind this collection. She feels that the darker times get in the world, the brighter and happier her collections become. We are wooed by the mixing of bold florals with colour blocking and polka dots

 

Peter Pilotto

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A move towards clean pastels with a retro feel is prevalent on the catwalks from NY and London – Peter Pilotto’s collection really embodies this trend and the bold inserts of colour really liven up the pastel palette.

 

Christopher Kane

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The muse for his collection was “the domestic goddess” pretty floral bouquets complimented by a ruffle or two make this terribly feminine. Prints are mixed and cut about with the juxtaposition of colour giving a new feel to these vintage florals.

 

Emelia Wickstead

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A very experimental collection with volume, scale and contrasting prairie like prints reminiscent of antique wallpaper. These florals and decorative stripes are freshly feminine yet slightly demure.

 

Natasha Zinko

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Zinko’s puts explosive botanicals in vibrant saturated colours on soft pastel grounds. This contrast gives really clean prints to this collection which is fresh, young and exciting.

 

Alice Archer

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Archer seems to travel globally with a vintage feel of Little House on the Prairie, on to Sicily, Mid European folkloric to the Steppes on Asia. From soft past shades to bold dark ground statements this is an eclectic range.

 

Erdem

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Inspired by a young Queen Elizabeth in the 1950s the Erdem prints have long elegant forms with demure necklines and kick out hems. As ever, very floral often with a pop of red to call upon one’s attention.

 

Shrimp

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Now for something completely different from Shrimp. A graphic collection of prints that amuse yet are very wearable complete with fluffy slippers, Bravo.

2017 Collections

designandcolour

designandcolour@gmail.com

The most recent catwalks have been filled with print – here we bring you a brief introduction to our favourites from Moschino, Gucci and more.

Valentino

Valentino is going to be our main summer inspiration – pineapples, palm trees and bright florals covered full skirts and summer dresses. The collection was inspired by Cuba – spot the white ginger lilies, Cuba’s national flower.

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Moschino

Jeremy Scott’s new collection did not disappoint. Both the Spring ‘17 Menswear and Resort ‘17 collections were bright and fun. Psychedelic, kaleidoscope and animal prints filled the catwalk and the whole show was a feast for the eyes.

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Dolce & Gabbana

Dolce & Gabbana’s collection was called “DG Musica”. You can see the musical hints through the collection, with instruments and piano players printed onto suits and bomber jackets. Pineapples were also featured; a hot print for summer which is clearly here to stay!

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Gucci

The Gucci Resort 2017 Show was held at Westminster Abbey. Alessandro Michele, creative director of Gucci, was extremely inspired by the gothic building. We loved the Victorian-esque floral dresses and co-ords.

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Images from Vogue.