exhibition

Robert Vernet at The London Print Design Fair

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Sarah Glyn-Woods of Design and Colour Ltd and Karl Grobelny from Creation Robert Vernet

Sometimes it is important to say things as they are….it is very quiet in the world of printed textiles, clothing manufacture and retail sales. It was therefore no surprise that the Fair was quieter than usual. There were some stunning designs on offer from our friends at Vernet as there were from other studios and sellers of vintage archives.

Just to be totally uncommercial for a moment, what would we do without the wonderful array of vintage garments when foot traffic is slow. There were things that I had worn in the past and even certain items that I have kept and are in suitcases in the loft. There were interesting characters posing in some outrageously wonderful outfits, so thanks for cheering us up and you know who you are!

Recently a friend borrowed a 1970s knitted kaftan to go to a party and my other half pointed her out to my son at the bus stop saying ”well that ‘s a throw back to the past”. He failed to notice it was our friend or that it was one of my many cherished garments that he thinks I should part with.

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Flowers were very much in evidence, as usual, but they were more painterly and some had a vintage cut out feel.Finally the photograph flowers appears to have faded away with the limited exception of some occasional wear seekers.

We had much interest in medium sized and smaller florals with a vintage feel but overall they needed to be very pretty.

Patchworks were popular; squared, diagonal or scarf prints from monochromatic to fresh multi coloured. The most popular flower for me was the poppy which appeared to have sneaked into most floral bouquets or be standing boldly in the forefront. The mixing of the poppy with other flowers and the looser shapes and variegated colour and texture moved the bloom safely away from the flower of remembrance day.

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Laura Newton from Blueye Design and Kate Lerigoleur from CRV13

Tie dyes a la Dior muted palette or in these playful bright colours were also very popular.

These were WGSN’s picks from Robert Vernet:

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designandcolour@gmail.com

Instagram – @theprintaffair

Scoop

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Scoop is a premium and contemporary womenswear and accessories tradeshow held at the iconic Saatchi Gallery, London. The exhibitors are leaders in the industry – directional, talented, successful and unique.

Scoop was launched in February 2011 by fashion industry expert Karen Radley. With an impressive line-up of premium collections, Scoop is based around creating an international design-led and London-based exhibition for niche designers; one where labels do not have to battle one another for attention and where the diverse brand offering guarantees visitors something they have not seen elsewhere. Today, Scoop has become a key destination for showcasing over 250 international contemporary designers.

We went along to spot brands that had interesting prints looking for colour, style, quirkiness or sheer beauty. The environment was clean bright and inviting and as a visitor a truly pleasurable experience.

Below are some of the collections that really caught our eye and some we will review in more detail in future blogs. We were debating whether to go as we are so busy and the moment on Friday afternoon and then realized that it is too easy to sit at one’s desk thinking that inspiration might come to us. Wrong, inspiration has to be seeked out and this day gave us a tonnage of ideas.

We hope that you enjoy our picks

 

Kittyarden.com

 

Cockatooboutique.com

 

Libelula-studio.com

 

Conditionsapply.co.uk

 

Emmagreenhill.com

 

Bluegirlsfolies.it

 

Onjenu.com

 

Great ladies in lovely prints.

WALALA X PLAY

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Sophie Wade - Design and Colour

Sophie Wade – designandcolour@gmail.com

Camille Walala, Now Gallery

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An Instagram-able labyrinth of colour and pattern has taken over the NOW Gallery in Greenwich London, and as a lover of all things colourful and patterned, I went along to see what all of the fuss was about.

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Digital print designer, Camille Walala, who describes herself as ‘a purveyor of powerfully positive digital print’, studied Textile Design at the University of Brighton and went on to establish her namesake brand in East London in 2009. She continues to work under this name in the form of installations, prints, furniture and many other exciting projects worldwide.

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Camille Walala sat on one of her vibrant designs in the form of a ping pong table

It is impossible not to feel happy when you first enter the maze. Saturated colours and bold pattern combined with mirrors on every corner make the exhibition so easy to loose yourself in.

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Installation from above, Sophie Wade

“With walls of different heights, passageways of different widths, enclosed spaces and curved and zigzag paths, the installation foregrounds the idea of human scale, giving visitors both a lasting visual impression and an extraordinary physical experience as they pass through it.” NOW Gallery

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Photography by Charles Emmerson

Photographs Sophie Wade

Walala X Play takes print from a 2D form into a three dimensional space which invites visitors to experience pattern in a completely different way.

Along side the success of the exhibition at NOW, Camille is building the key landmark for the London Design Festival which will be running across the city from the 16th to 24th September. ‘Villa Walala’ is the festival’s largest installation and will be built in Broadgate, a rather grey, sterile office block area of the city. The stark contrast of Camille’s vibrant style with its surroundings makes this installation so exciting.

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The London Design Festival is one of the largest design events in the world and will host over 400 events across the capital.

Watch below to see Camille talk about exhibition

http://camillewalala.com/tagged/work

http://nowgallery.co.uk/exhibitions/walala-x-play/

https://www.dezeen.com/2017/05/18/london-design-festival-announce-installations-2017-camille-walala-events-news/

Lucienne Day – A Sense of Growthat The Whitworth Gallery

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Sophie Wade - Design and Colour

Sophie Wade – designandcolour@gmail.com

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2With a career spanning 60 years, Lucienne Day has had an important influence on surface pattern design which was recently celebrated in an exhibition at The Whitworth Art Gallery in Manchester.

The iconic work of Day symbolised a post-war revival in design. Prints became more bold and vibrant, exploring the use of colour and pattern in new and different ways.

 

She created a unique style which rekindled the enthusiasm interior design following the dreary era of utility design during the war years.

The design that catapulted Lucienne onto the mass market was ‘Calyx’ in 1951. The design was forward thinking, abstract yet still resembled the idea of nature and growth. This was the start of a long relationship between Day and Heals and an iconic shift in the history of textiles.

This design has since won numerous awards and went on to become a best seller for the Heal’s Wholesaleand Export Company so much so that is was reissued as part of their Classic Textiles 2003 collection.

Courtesy of the Robin & Lucienne Day Foundation

Courtesy of the Centre for Advanced Textiles, Glasgow School of Art

Lucienne also went onto design prints for wallpaper for companies such as Cole & Son and John Line & Son.

Provence wallpaper, 1951
Diabolo wallpaper, 1951

Robin and Lucienne Day with Telechair in their Cheyne Walk studio

Copyright the Robin & Lucienne Day Foundation

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Dandelion Clocks furnishing fabric, 1953, Heals

“A keen gardener, Lucienne was fascinated by the structure of plants. Many of her early patterns have a quasi-botanical quality, incorporating abstracted pod, stem, root, flower, petal, leaf or seed head motifs.” Robin and Lucienne Day Foundation

Flotilla – Grey, 1952, Heals
Riga, – Green, 1961, Heals

Classic Textiles, https://www.classictextiles.com/lucienne-day/

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John Lewis is celebrating Lucienne Day’s Centenary with an exclusive range of cushions made up from Classic Textiles reprints of her iconic 1950s designs.

https://www.johnlewis.com/brand/lucienne-day/_/N-1z135aq

http://www.whitworth.manchester.ac.uk/whats-on/exhibitions/currentexhibitions/lucienneday/

All Images Copyright the Robin & Lucienne Day Foundation

Anna Sui

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Sarah Glyn-Woods – designandcolour@gmail.com

The World of Anna Sui

The Fashion and Textile Museum are hosting the first ever restrospective of an American fshion designer in the UK. With over 125 full looks ‘The World of Anna Sui’ explores the glamorous and eclectic world of one of New York’s most beloved and accomplished designers. Since her first catwalk show in 1991, Sui has become known for creating fabulously original clothing inspired by spectacular amounts of research into vintage fashion and popular culture.

 

Left Image: Linda Evangelista modeling A/W 1991 – Anna Sui’s first runway show featuring looks inspired by 1960’s Carnaby Street.

Right Image: Pop-sydelic Collection, Autumn Winter 2016, featuring Jamie Bochert & Justin Gossman.

Images left to right: Anna Sui, 2011 © Anna Sui.

Anna Sui’s collections take you on a creative journey that is unparalleled in the world of fashion. Mixing vintage inspiration with her current cultural obsessions, she effortlessly makes hip and exuberant original clothes. Anna Sui’s first fashion show in 1991 earned her international acclaim. She won the CFDA Perry Ellis Award for New Fashion Talent in 1993, and in 2009 she received their prestigious Geoffrey Beene Lifetime Achievement Award.

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Images left to right :

Gracie Van Gastel backstage at the Spring Summer 2014 Collection inspired in part by the Pre-Raphaelites: Victorian Avant Garde exhibition at the Tate in 2012 combined with the work of The Fool, the 1960s psychedelic design collective.

Image © Raoul Gatchalian Spring Summer 2012 Isetan Mitsukoshi promotion featuring Frida Gustavsson.

Image © Sofia Sanchez and Mauro Mongiello. S/S 2014 collection featuring menswear inspired by the Sixties London boutique Granny Takes a Trip.

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Images left to right :

Nordic Viking Ensemble, A/W 2015, inspired by the History Channel’s Vikings show. Textile print by Zandra Rhodes featuring feathers, shells and hibiscus © Zandra Rhodes, 2015.

Gigi Hadid and Caroline Trentini modelling the Polynesian Collection, Spring Summer 2016. The print on the dress modelled by Gigi Hadid was commissioned from Zandra Rhodes and the models also wear wedge-heeled Hush Puppies shoes, which highlight Sui’s ability to make strategic partnerships with kindred designers and manufacturers.

Image © Jennifer Graylock. Surfer-inspired look from the S/S 2016 Tahiti collection.

The exhibition is arranged thematically with 12 inspirational archetypes which recur throughout Anna Sui’s collections. Please refer to the exhibition booklet for additional interpretation.

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Anna Sui designs and manufactures from her New York City headquarters. Her runway shows continue to inspire and set trends with her signature rock- n-roll romanticism. The Anna Sui brand has been independently owned since its inception in 1981.

The Fashion and Textile Museum is at 83 Bermondsey Street, London SE1 3XF.

http://www.ftmlondon.org #annasui

1920’s Jazz Age

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Sarah Glyn-Woods – designandcolour@gmail.com

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American Museum Bath

18th March – 29th October

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In the 1920s , post WW1, wealthy women in America experienced a seismic shift in moral, social and cultural attitudes.

This emancipation was reflected in fashion where new trends called lounge wear and sportswear  appeared reflecting a less austere, freer and more relaxed lifestyle for these affluent ladies. Travel was popular amongst the wealthy classes and Paris had been established as the centre of fashion in Europe but the Americans were now eager to set their own trends and spread this influence through fashion, music and the silver screen.

Pyjamas were no longer only the garment of choice for his lordship’s at night. Ladies of immense leisure could now float around the house in sumptuous and elaborating decorated loungewear based on this more utilitarian attire. Printed, embroidered and even beaded these loose garments oozed elegance yet freedom from constriction.

Topped with a Kimono the look became superbly exotic. Only the privileged few would have any idea about the Japanese origins of the garment. In the last couple of years both kimonos and pyjamas have graced our high street but few as lovely as these.

In the 1920s there was a new trend, attributed to Coco Channel, called sun bathing to obtain a tan. “Les Sportives” adorned the beaches in the South of France and this was quickly picked up by States side ladies. Swimsuits were now developed to exposure more of the body to the sun’s rays and frolicking in the water was now an acceptable genteel and fun past time for ladies of society.

Previously a tan was to be avoided as this suggested that a woman was forced by toil or other circumstances to be outside exposed to the elements as a peasant. Outside pleasures had until then be shaded under parasols, verandahs and picnics under trees.

Prints on garments and swimsuits were influenced by the art movements of the time with bold cubist, geometric and abstract forms.

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The above pyjamas with hem detailing and the mixing of plain fabrics and printed seems so of this moment today as does the placement embroidery. There is an oriental feel that we have all be trying to emanate in today’s fashions but we can see that it has as usual been done before.

I particularly liked these dark based florals shot with lame and boldly coloured flowers.

Lastly the looseness of this coat with its exotic Egyptian print allowed the wearer freedom of movement but also demonstrated boldness and exoticism from another culture. Without prior knowledge it would be extremely difficult to guess the date of such a garment and I would have probably said much more recently.

1920s Jazz Age: Fashion & Photographs is organised by The Fashion and Textile Museum

Thanks to;

Helen Keel, PR and Communications – helen.keel@btinternet.com of www.americanmuseum.org

Preview the exhibition with this informative video

 

Joyce Petschek

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sarah2016

Sarah Glyn-Woods – designandcolour@gmail.com

 

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Breaking the Pattern

American Museum, Bath

18 March – 29 October 2017

Normally at the Print Affair we cover all things print but on occasions we broaden our horizons and look at other surface pattern techniques. My attention was caught by an upcoming exhibition in Bath by the vibrant colour placement of Joyce Petschek work and I contacted Helen the press officer of the American Museum in order to learn more.

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Northern Lights

I would recommend the American Museum to you all. There was plenty to see including a fabulous “Jazz Age” exhibition of clothing, Joyce Petschek, grounds full of crazy knitted items and the permanent museum display which includes native American, early settler to early last century artifacts. This is a great day out in a fabulous rural surrounding on the edge of Bath by the university.

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Infinity

American Joyce Petschek has been passionate about Bargello needlework for much of her life. Instead, however, of trying to preserve the history of this tradition within its rigid confines, she is ‘Breaking the Pattern’ and reinventing the genre. The American Museum in Bath is hosting her first exhibition in the UK.

Joyce lives in Tuscany and London, hand-stitches her designs primarily in silk threads to create works of intensely rich and luminous colour.

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Heart & Wisdom

The artist hand-stitches her designs primarily in silk threads to create works of intensely rich and luminous colour. Joyce begins stitching without any preliminary sketch of the pattern itself. She often works on several pieces at a time, selecting her silk threads first and then stitching onto the canvas, always following her intuitive inspiration.

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Each new work can take anything from a few months to a year to complete. In addition to unique wall textiles, Petschek has a special interest in reworking antique furniture, combining her designs with striking fabrics to give each piece an exceptional ‘out of time’ appearance.

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Uranus

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Intuition

Long renowned for its textile collection, the American Museum owns several examples of eighteenth-century flame-stitched objects and will juxtapose these pieces with Joyce’s work throughout the manor house to create an immersive exhibition experience.

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Thanks to Helen Keel for her help with this post;

Helen Keel, PR and Communications – helen.keel@btinternet.com 07970 998232
www.americanmuseum.org

American Museum in Britain, Claverton Manor, Claverton, Bath BA2 7BD 01225 460503

Follow us on Facebook @AmericanMuseumInBritain and Twitter @Americanmuseum

Premier Vision 2017

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sarah2016

Sarah Glyn-Woods – designandcolour@gmail.com

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Alice and I went to PV in Paris this February as Sublitex were exhibiting in Premiere Vision Designs. This is a great opportunity for me to meet the Italian team and the other agents from Europe. We also visited the design studios and selected artwork with Alice for the UK market.

Sublitex have their own studio creating designs in Italy but compliment this with designs that they purchase to give a broader offering to their international clients.

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A busy stand with clients from France and Italy

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Mr Fererro the CEO of Miroglio Textile, with our good friend Ettore Formento the M.D of Sublitex Textiles deep in conversation.

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Alice on a mission to find a design as only she knows how.

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The stand was truly beautiful open and bright and our clients and agents enjoyed looking through the collection while nibbling on hunks of Parmesan and rosemary crackers. Caught you Christophe Spies (France) and Tom Pericci (Italy).

It is also an opportunity to visit the European Print houses such as FTF of France, a well established print company and speak with Fred Touati their M.D.

Our designs looked stunning on his stand and Fred’s collection reflected the latest trends for embroideries, striped designs and painterly flowers

Alice and I are always interested to see the base fabrics that are prints are applied to and at FTF the fabrics brought our print alive. contact@ftf.fr

Everywhere we saw there were a strong Asian influence, conversational stripes, foliage and greenery and as a total contrast painterly non print prints in both the Halls and the Trend section.

You can view PV Designs Print Spring Summer 2018 selection

http://www.premierevision.com/en/mode/spring-summer-18/show-fabrics/theme-fabrics/fabrics-spring-summer-18/

PREMIERE VISION

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Next week Alice and I will be at Premiere Vision Designs in Paris. If you are coming to the show do pop in and meet us. We will be presenting the Sublitex new print collection, looking at trends and artwork from the studios.

We are eager to discuss your specific print needs but are also hoping to find some interesting ideas for the blog.

Bon voyage to all those who are coming.

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