Massimo Rumi

massimo rumi

Max was born in Reggio Calabria (Italy) in 1971.

After graduating in Economics he moved to London to further his career and work for a multinational company.

In 2007 he decided to take a sabbatical and travel around the world fulfilling his two great passions, travel and photography, while exploring his fascination of the world’s diverse cultures.

Today Massimo has visited 80 countries and lived in Australia for many years, before making London his home again.

I came across this amazing photographer on a train to London when I opened the Eyewitness section of The Guardian newspaper and saw his photographs of the Egungan masquerade group of Ouidah in Benin, West Africa.

Oba and Ayefodo 1

Photo : Oba and Ayefodo 1

I put the photo article in my handbag and have since contacted Max who kindly agreed to us featuring his  work on our blog.  Here are some of the most extraordinary costumes that I have every seen and do take a look at Max’ website to see more and other wonderous people and places.

Egungan MaskPhoto : Egungan Mask

Egungun masqueraders

The Spirit of Ancestors

Belief in ancestors is one of the core doctrines of African traditional religion. The Yoruba people of Benin republic believe in life after death, and the re-appearance of the ancestors in the physical corporal world happens through Egungun.

Egungun, which date back to the 14th century, is a ritual performance dedicated to ancestor worship that incorporate dance, singing, drumming, chanting, masking costumes and recitation.

Masquerades, are all men and represent the spirit of their ancestors. They are completely covered by elaborate costumes made of richly brocaded and highly symbolic tapestry-like fabrics. Brightly coloured textiles are added to these big garments from year to year and no part of the performer body is to be seen.

KparamonlePhoto : Kparamonle

omonlotcheyi2

Brightly coloured textiles are added to these big garments from year to year and no part of the performer body is to be seen.The costumes with their numerous layers of vividly coloured cloth, embroidery, leather, animal skin, shells and beads, and their architectural headpieces and masks, completely obliterate the human form.

kparamonle 2

All images taken from Massimorumi.com with the kind permission of the artist.

Massimorumi

During the performance the masquerades in these beautiful costumes reach their full potential and enter a state of ecstasy where their anonymity is of the upmost importance in the Egungun. Once wearing the costume, the performer stops to be himself and become the ancestor.

Egungun are celebrated in festivals and family rituals and their society remains a highly secretive organisation with its own temples that are barred to all but members of the society.

omonloto

omonloto2

Met Gala 2019

Costume Institute Benefit on May 6 with Co-Chairs Lady Gaga, Alessandro Michele, Harry Styles, Serena Williams, and Anna Wintour.

The Costume Institute’s spring 2019 exhibition, Camp: Notes on Fashion (on view from May 9 through September 8, 2019, and preceded on May 6 by The Costume Institute Benefit), explores the origins of camp’s exuberant aesthetic and how the sensibility evolved from a place of marginality to become an important influence on mainstream culture. Susan Sontag’s 1964 essay “Notes on ‘Camp’” provides the framework for the exhibition, which examines how fashion designers have used their métier as a vehicle to engage with camp in a myriad of compelling, humorous, and sometimes incongruous ways. <https://www.metmuseum.org/press/exhibitions/2019/camp>

Rachel Brosnahan in Erdem and Josephine Skriver in Jonathan Simkhai.

Alexa Chung  in AlexaChung  and Alicia Vikander in Louis Vuitton.

Proenza Schouler and Lily Aldridge in Richard Quinn.

Ashley Graham in Gucci and Liu Wen.

Susan Sontag’s 1964 essay, which defines camp as “love of the unnatural: of artifice and exaggeration.” Think: over-the-top shapes, theatrical accessories and anything wonderfully eccentric.

Dua Lipa in Versace and Hamish Bowles in Masion Margella Artisanal.

Lupita Nyong’o in Versace and Idris Elba in Versace.

Regina Hall in Dapper Dan, Sienna Miller in Paco Rabanne & Stella Maxwell in Moschino.

Ru Paul and  Solange in Salvatore Ferragamo.

Wendi Deng Murdoch in Mary Katrantzou & Sofia Sanchez de batak  in Mango.

All Above Images from http://www.vogue.com

The Exhibition

“Camp: Notes on Fashion” exhibit is an exploration of how over-the-top fashion has been used as both a form of expression and escapism throughout history.

The exhibition features approximately 250 objects, including womenswear and menswear, as well as sculptures, paintings, and drawings dating from the 17th century to the present. The show’s opening section positions Versailles as a “camp Eden” and address the concept of se camper—“to posture boldly”—in the royal courts of Louis XIV and Louis XV.  It then focuses on the figure of the dandy as a “camp ideal” and traces camp’s origins to the queer subcultures of Europe and America in the late 19th and early 20th centuries.  In her essay, Sontag defined camp as an aesthetic and outlined its primary characteristics. The second section of the exhibition is devoted to how these elements—which include irony, humour, parody, pastiche, artifice, theatricality, and exaggeration—are expressed in fashion.<https://www.metmuseum.org/press/exhibitions/2019/camp>

2-ensemblebertrandguyonforschiaparellifallwinter2017

Image: Ensemble, Bertrand Guyon (French, born 1965) and headpiece by Stephen Jones (British, born 1957) for House of Schiaparelli (French, founded 1927), fall/winter 2018–19 haute couture; Courtesy of Schiaparelli. Image courtesy of The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Photo © Johnny Dufort, 2019

instagram.com@metmuseum

instagram.com@metmuseum

The largest section of the exhibition is devoted to how elements discussed in Sontag’s essay including irony, humor, parody, pastiche, artifice, theatricality, and exaggeration are expressed in fashion. twitter.com/metmuseum

 

Colour of the month – Cinnamon

‘Cinnamon’ –  Combine with blue and mint green as a popping contrast or stick to other earthy, warm tone with oranges and browns.

Look out for the blog post tomorrow a continuation; looking at the new sought after colour with all things ‘Khaki’.

In the mean time… Sugar and Spice and all things nice.

cinnamon.jpg

 

 

 

Summer Stripes

 

Fun Inspiration…

Nothing transcends seasons – or decades – more seamlessly than stripes.

instagram.com/crafttherainbow                    instagram.com/japanhouseldn

nstagram.com:paulsmithdesign:

instagram.com/paulsmithdesign

Screen Shot 2019-04-07 at 14.52.35

instagram.com/Peopleofprint

Screen printing squeegees made using skateboard decks by @iris_skateboards

http://www.instagram.com/kibethdetroi               www.instagram.com/veeceecheng

Screen Shot 2019-04-07 at 15.01.48

instagram.com/patternpeople       Franklin’s Footpath by artist Gene Davis 1972

instagram.com/beyonce/

Stripes in fashion…

Preen line resort 2019  vogue.com

Olivia Rubin                                  Claudie Pierlot

selfridges.com

samsoe and samsoe

Samsoe Samsoe       www.selfridges.com

Femenine stripes adding a fun pop of colour to these dresses from ‘brand of the moment’ Rixo.

http://www.rixo.co.uk

 

Coachella Fashion

The start of the festival season and it’s just as much about the fashion as it is the music. See below all the hottest trends from festival goers and celebrities a like.

Instagram @GigiHadid.

Model Gigi Hadid layered a pink-and-orange tie-dyed Ganni vest over an all-white ensemble. Tie Dye was a bit hit right across the festival  – the brighter the better.

photo @joshtelles

Instagram @coachella Fuego @badbunnypr photo @jbabsel

Jasmine tookes: Instagram/@jastookes          Vanessa Hudgens: JORDAN STEAD / Amazon

Jasmine Tookes attended Nasty Gal’s Coachella party wearing a two-piece animal-print set from the brand. Vanessa Hudgens is known for being the queen of Coachella style, a fringed patchwork-esque maxidress by Camilla.

electric lady @janellemonae photo @poonehghana

Monochrome graphic bodysuits from electric lady @janellemonae photo @poonehghana

Bold Burberry Plaid and colourful monogram Louis Vuitton prints on stage.

Instagram @coachella

Glamour.com Christian Vierig/Getty Images                              coachella photo @jnsilva

@calvinklein

Instagram @calvinklein

The art of Coachella… bright bold colours lighting up the festival sky. A feast for the eyes.

A Designer’s day out

In these difficult times it is important to get out and seek out inspiration; so here are some of our favourite finds from London’s Chelsea Harbour Design Week.

Chelsea 1

 Traditional, Tribal, Textural

GP & J Baker – ‘Modern Country Collection’.  A warming, eclectic mix of fabrics.

A contemporary twist…. on design and colour.

Hermes Paris Walllpaper                                          Jim Thompson ‘Shangri-la Collection’

Zoffany – ‘Rhombi Wallcoverings’.   A sophisticated blend of Contemporary and Timeless designs that would enhance any interior environment.

 Abstract & Expressive

Pierre Frey Fabrics

Timorous Beasties

Timorous Beasties

Different takes on ‘The Tropics

Harlequin

Harlequin Fabrics – Mala.

Romo Fabrics – Japura Collection

 

Lily Pulitzer

We have been busy colouring designs in “Bright Pastels” which appears to be a case of tautology to the uninitiated. After some discussion we figured out that this was clean pastel shades that were then brightened up a touch which recalled the Florida designer Lilly Pulitzer.

Much like Mary Quant, this designer rose to fame in the 1960’s, born in New New State, her mother was the heiress to the “Standard Oil” fortune and the young Lilly went to school Jacqueline Kennedy. Her prints were extraordinary and fun aimed at the new young and fashionable set.

Lilly married Peter Pulitzer, of the Pulitzer prize family, and shortly after settled in  Palm Springs , Florida. They owned several orange groves and with the produce from the groves, she opened a fruit juice stand in Palm Beach. She found that squeezing juice made a mess of her clothes and seeking to camouflage the juice stains, she designed a sleeveless shift made of bright, colourful printed cotton. She discovered that her customers loved her dresses, so she produced more to sell at her juice stand. Eventually, she was selling more dresses than juice, and decided to focus on designing and selling what had now become known as her “Lillys”.

In 1959 Lilly founded her own company, Lilly Pulitzer, Inc. with the company’s main factory in Miami. The printed fabrics were produced by the Key West Hand Print Fabrics company. From the 1960s to the early 1980s, Pulitzer’s bright, colourful clothes were very popular, worn by the elite after Jackie Kennedy was featured in Life Magazine in one of Lilly’s famous shifts dresses. The Jacqueline dress is one of Lilly Pulitzer’s most successful styles. By 1984, Lilly closed down the entire clothing operation as interest waned.

In 1993, the rights to the brand were purchased by Sugartown Worldwide, Inc. Pulitzer was not involved in the day-to-day administration of the company, but she continued to serve in the role of creative consultant, approving new designs, fabrics, and collections, and branching out into other product lines. On April 7, 2013, aged 81, Lilly passed away but the company she founded continues with the same bright summery prints, suitable for Florida and following her motto that  “It’s always summer somewhere.”

Lilly Pulitzer 2019. All photos thanks to Lilypolitzer.com

 

lilly pulitzer 2019

One for the boys

At The Print affair we sometimes make an effort to wear a print, although as many female print and fashion designers, we have a reputation of often wearing black. This has been going on industry wide for the last thirty years but we do make a conscious effort to break this habit when at exhibitions. However, our male colleagues in the industry are even worse. We see little else other than chambray blue or white shirts and the predictable black polo or Tee.

This blog is for our  brothers, for whom we have selected some fabulous printed shirts to satisfy every budget and character, from the wildly flamboyant to the quietly retiring type. Finally there are our Top Picks of Sublitex designs as we think back fondly to the 1990s. In this era there was a demand for prints destined for men to wear clubbing at the weekend and it was such fun to design for.

versace.com over £1000

balenciaga.com  £750 – 1000

gucci.com  £500 – 700

prada.com  £500 – 700

tedbaker.com  £100-150

simoncarter.net  £100 -150

prettygreen.com  £50 – 100

riverisland.com under £50

jadedldn.com under £50

boohoo.com under £20