Scoop

 

Scoop is a premium and contemporary womenswear and accessories tradeshow held at the iconic Saatchi Gallery, London. The exhibitors are leaders in the industry – directional, talented, successful and unique.

Scoop was launched in February 2011 by fashion industry expert Karen Radley. With an impressive line-up of premium collections, Scoop is based around creating an international design-led and London-based exhibition for niche designers; one where labels do not have to battle one another for attention and where the diverse brand offering guarantees visitors something they have not seen elsewhere. Today, Scoop has become a key destination for showcasing over 250 international contemporary designers.

We went along to spot brands that had interesting prints looking for colour, style, quirkiness or sheer beauty. The environment was clean bright and inviting and as a visitor a truly pleasurable experience.

Below are some of the collections that really caught our eye and some we will review in more detail in future blogs. We were debating whether to go as we are so busy and the moment on Friday afternoon and then realized that it is too easy to sit at one’s desk thinking that inspiration might come to us. Wrong, inspiration has to be seeked out and this day gave us a tonnage of ideas.

We hope that you enjoy our picks

 

Kittyarden.com

 

Cockatooboutique.com

 

Libelula-studio.com

 

Conditionsapply.co.uk

 

Emmagreenhill.com

 

Bluegirlsfolies.it

 

Onjenu.com

 

Great ladies in lovely prints.

La Double J

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Founded by J.J. Martin in 2015, the company has expanded from a shopable magazine selling just vintage clothing and jewellery, to a full lifestyle label offering new fashion made with archival prints, cool home furnishing designs and rare vintage. All of La Double J’s creations; from its content, editorial projects and pop up shops, to its product design and wildly patterned showroom in Milan— are distilled through a lens of pure joy, eye-popping print and love of all things maximal.

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A voracious vintage obsessive, the Los Angeles born, Milan-based journalist and author J.J. Martin has spent two decades diving into squeaky vintage stores, dusty charity bins, pop-up flea markets and early morning fairs, faithfully amassing a personal vintage collection and developing a network of beloved dealers who have become friends. Now as the owner of La Double J, she loves to mix imperfect, soulful vintage styles with the hottest fashion trends of the time.

 

JJ Martin – Photograph by Alberto Zanetti

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Over the last 16 years as an expat in Milan, her writing has appeared in T: The New York Times Style Magazine, The International Herald Tribune, Japanese Vogue, Elle Décor, Harper’s Bazaar USA (a European editor for five years) WSJ (as a contributing editor for 3 years) and Wallpaper* magazine (where she served as the Milan Editor for 8 years). She is also the author of “Carolina Herrera, 35 Years of Fashion” and the children’s book “Bobby’s Brilliant Heels”. Now, she is known as the ‘princess of prints’ and is putting all of her fashion knowledge and trend expertise into creating a unique brand celebrating Milan’s most treasured designs.

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La Double J 2017 Collection

Their new clothing is made from vintage patterns discovered sleeping in the secret archives of Italy’s top textile manufacturers, printed onto new fabrics and crafted entirely in Italy. The brand debuted with 8 historic prints and has blossomed into 45 vintage patterns offered in a See-Now, Buy-Now program that drops new styles and prints every two months, on must-have pieces for women, men and children.

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La Double J 2017 Collection

They are not only known for their fashion lines, we can also see their prints dance upon tableware and ceramics. A line of perfectly patterned, maximalist masterpiece ceramics and linens were designed inspired by mythical Milanese housewives, otherwise known as Sciure.

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Plates feature vintage patterns that have been reworked in new motifs and are intended to be layered, mixed and matched with our printed linens for a maximal table effect.

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We love how you can shop the collection by print and era. It’s a new way to shop by putting the print as the focus for the customer instead of shape of the garment.

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You can currently see some of the La Double J products in Liberty of London in their pop up store on the 2nd floor. With the walls lined with retro dizzy prints, it’s a great place to escape the city and immerse yourself in design.


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Photo – @libertylondon

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Photo – @libertylondon

With thanks to the press team at La Double J

https://www.instagram.com/libertylondon/

https://www.ladoublej.com

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The House Of Wallpaper by Graham & Brown

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From the 18th September to 4th October, 2017 Graham & Brown, the UK’s largest wallpaper design and manufacturer, held the exhibition The House of Wallpaper for the London Design Festival where visitors were taken on an immersive journey to look at the history of wallpaper and discover what the future holds for the walls that surround us.

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Visitors are able to experience wallpaper in a futuristic way

Immersive kaleidoscope experience has been created in The Cube with a stunning, visual trompe l’oeil paper effect.

For over seventy years, Graham & Brown has inspired the nation to think differently about their walls, from creating its first embossed wallpaper to today’s contemporary prints. Founded in 1946 by Harold Graham and Henry Brown, the business is still family-run to this day in Blackburn, Lancashire, and has become the UK’s leading wallpaper designer and manufacturer.

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Display of diiferent ideas for wallpaper designs

Thriving on continuous innovation and creativity through design and craftsmanship, Graham & Brown creates trend-setting wallpaper collections for the home, complemented by a unique paint collection, wall art and home accessories. These are sold internationally to 75 countries through its divisions in North America, France, Holland, Russia, China and Australia.

Left to Right – Samples of next seasons prints, Screens showing the printing process of wallpaper

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‘Pick and Play’ installation created with Microsoft Surface

“As one of the few British wallpaper manufactures remaining, we are so excited to be able to host and create such a multi-layered creative space for people to take a journey that tells the story of design, craft and materiality for walls. This is a rare chance to have a close-up look at the level of craft, artistry and scale of processes that goes into the making of over 16 million rolls per year.”

Explains Andrew Graham, MBE, CEO of Graham & Brown.

The exhibition draws you in with beautiful peony’s and roses decorating the entrance and leads you all the way through to the reception area. We fell in love with the car parked outside printed in the stunning ‘ Pierre’ design.

Outside the exhibition on Greek Street, Soho

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Visitors are taken through the design process on the first floor of the townhouse and are able to see the initial drawings of some of the wallpaper designs.

Here is a look at some of the Graham & Brown current wallpaper designs:

Left to right – Botanical Powder Wallpaper, Chinoiserie Canary Wallpaper

Left to right – Ubud Mayhem Wallpaper, Stroma Origami Wallpaper

Watch the video below to see the exhibition come to life:

With thanks to the press team at Graham & Brown, All images courtesy of Graham & Brown.

https://www.grahambrown.com/uk/

London Fashion Week

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Overall the print direction for SS2018 is most definitely still floral. The fabrics range from diaphanous sheers to crisp sateen. Colour palettes are contrasting from the gentlest muted pastels to bold statements in yellow, cobalt, red, orange and magenta. The mix and match of these two get really exciting when a pastel ground is super imposed with bright blooms or a muted toned patchwork has a shocking vibrant splash of colour breathing life into the piece.

All images thanks to Vogue.co.uk

Roberta Einer

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Roberta Einer was selected as an “emerging designer” in 2016 and has been a vibrant and exciting name on the catwalk ever since. We love her collection and the whole way it has been styled with a lots of mark making and beautiful muted tones.

 

Richard Quinn

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This is strong collection for print from RQ. The show itself was held in Liberty and Richard collaborated with Anna Buruma, head of Liberty archives, to use and adapt their prints for this collection. He blew up ditsies to be really large scale and manipulated them so that they are almost unrecognizable.

 

Mary Katranzou

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“I’m an 80’s Baby “ was the inspiration behind this collection. She feels that the darker times get in the world, the brighter and happier her collections become. We are wooed by the mixing of bold florals with colour blocking and polka dots

 

Peter Pilotto

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A move towards clean pastels with a retro feel is prevalent on the catwalks from NY and London – Peter Pilotto’s collection really embodies this trend and the bold inserts of colour really liven up the pastel palette.

 

Christopher Kane

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The muse for his collection was “the domestic goddess” pretty floral bouquets complimented by a ruffle or two make this terribly feminine. Prints are mixed and cut about with the juxtaposition of colour giving a new feel to these vintage florals.

 

Emelia Wickstead

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A very experimental collection with volume, scale and contrasting prairie like prints reminiscent of antique wallpaper. These florals and decorative stripes are freshly feminine yet slightly demure.

 

Natasha Zinko

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Zinko’s puts explosive botanicals in vibrant saturated colours on soft pastel grounds. This contrast gives really clean prints to this collection which is fresh, young and exciting.

 

Alice Archer

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Archer seems to travel globally with a vintage feel of Little House on the Prairie, on to Sicily, Mid European folkloric to the Steppes on Asia. From soft past shades to bold dark ground statements this is an eclectic range.

 

Erdem

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Inspired by a young Queen Elizabeth in the 1950s the Erdem prints have long elegant forms with demure necklines and kick out hems. As ever, very floral often with a pop of red to call upon one’s attention.

 

Shrimp

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Now for something completely different from Shrimp. A graphic collection of prints that amuse yet are very wearable complete with fluffy slippers, Bravo.

WALALA X PLAY

Sophie Wade - Design and Colour

Sophie Wade – designandcolour@gmail.com

Camille Walala, Now Gallery

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An Instagram-able labyrinth of colour and pattern has taken over the NOW Gallery in Greenwich London, and as a lover of all things colourful and patterned, I went along to see what all of the fuss was about.

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Digital print designer, Camille Walala, who describes herself as ‘a purveyor of powerfully positive digital print’, studied Textile Design at the University of Brighton and went on to establish her namesake brand in East London in 2009. She continues to work under this name in the form of installations, prints, furniture and many other exciting projects worldwide.

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Camille Walala sat on one of her vibrant designs in the form of a ping pong table

It is impossible not to feel happy when you first enter the maze. Saturated colours and bold pattern combined with mirrors on every corner make the exhibition so easy to loose yourself in.

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Installation from above, Sophie Wade

“With walls of different heights, passageways of different widths, enclosed spaces and curved and zigzag paths, the installation foregrounds the idea of human scale, giving visitors both a lasting visual impression and an extraordinary physical experience as they pass through it.” NOW Gallery

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Photography by Charles Emmerson

Photographs Sophie Wade

Walala X Play takes print from a 2D form into a three dimensional space which invites visitors to experience pattern in a completely different way.

Along side the success of the exhibition at NOW, Camille is building the key landmark for the London Design Festival which will be running across the city from the 16th to 24th September. ‘Villa Walala’ is the festival’s largest installation and will be built in Broadgate, a rather grey, sterile office block area of the city. The stark contrast of Camille’s vibrant style with its surroundings makes this installation so exciting.

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The London Design Festival is one of the largest design events in the world and will host over 400 events across the capital.

Watch below to see Camille talk about exhibition

http://camillewalala.com/tagged/work

http://nowgallery.co.uk/exhibitions/walala-x-play/

https://www.dezeen.com/2017/05/18/london-design-festival-announce-installations-2017-camille-walala-events-news/

Lucienne Day – A Sense of Growthat The Whitworth Gallery

Sophie Wade - Design and Colour

Sophie Wade – designandcolour@gmail.com

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2With a career spanning 60 years, Lucienne Day has had an important influence on surface pattern design which was recently celebrated in an exhibition at The Whitworth Art Gallery in Manchester.

The iconic work of Day symbolised a post-war revival in design. Prints became more bold and vibrant, exploring the use of colour and pattern in new and different ways.

 

She created a unique style which rekindled the enthusiasm interior design following the dreary era of utility design during the war years.

The design that catapulted Lucienne onto the mass market was ‘Calyx’ in 1951. The design was forward thinking, abstract yet still resembled the idea of nature and growth. This was the start of a long relationship between Day and Heals and an iconic shift in the history of textiles.

This design has since won numerous awards and went on to become a best seller for the Heal’s Wholesaleand Export Company so much so that is was reissued as part of their Classic Textiles 2003 collection.

Courtesy of the Robin & Lucienne Day Foundation

Courtesy of the Centre for Advanced Textiles, Glasgow School of Art

Lucienne also went onto design prints for wallpaper for companies such as Cole & Son and John Line & Son.

Robin and Lucienne Day with Telechair in their Cheyne Walk studio

Copyright the Robin & Lucienne Day Foundation

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Dandelion Clocks furnishing fabric, 1953, Heals

“A keen gardener, Lucienne was fascinated by the structure of plants. Many of her early patterns have a quasi-botanical quality, incorporating abstracted pod, stem, root, flower, petal, leaf or seed head motifs.” Robin and Lucienne Day Foundation

Classic Textiles, https://www.classictextiles.com/lucienne-day/

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John Lewis is celebrating Lucienne Day’s Centenary with an exclusive range of cushions made up from Classic Textiles reprints of her iconic 1950s designs.

https://www.johnlewis.com/brand/lucienne-day/_/N-1z135aq

http://www.whitworth.manchester.ac.uk/whats-on/exhibitions/currentexhibitions/lucienneday/

All Images Copyright the Robin & Lucienne Day Foundation

Anna Sui

sarah2016

Sarah Glyn-Woods – designandcolour@gmail.com

The World of Anna Sui

The Fashion and Textile Museum are hosting the first ever restrospective of an American fshion designer in the UK. With over 125 full looks ‘The World of Anna Sui’ explores the glamorous and eclectic world of one of New York’s most beloved and accomplished designers. Since her first catwalk show in 1991, Sui has become known for creating fabulously original clothing inspired by spectacular amounts of research into vintage fashion and popular culture.

 

Left Image: Linda Evangelista modeling A/W 1991 – Anna Sui’s first runway show featuring looks inspired by 1960’s Carnaby Street.

Right Image: Pop-sydelic Collection, Autumn Winter 2016, featuring Jamie Bochert & Justin Gossman.

Images left to right: Anna Sui, 2011 © Anna Sui.

Anna Sui’s collections take you on a creative journey that is unparalleled in the world of fashion. Mixing vintage inspiration with her current cultural obsessions, she effortlessly makes hip and exuberant original clothes. Anna Sui’s first fashion show in 1991 earned her international acclaim. She won the CFDA Perry Ellis Award for New Fashion Talent in 1993, and in 2009 she received their prestigious Geoffrey Beene Lifetime Achievement Award.

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Images left to right :

Gracie Van Gastel backstage at the Spring Summer 2014 Collection inspired in part by the Pre-Raphaelites: Victorian Avant Garde exhibition at the Tate in 2012 combined with the work of The Fool, the 1960s psychedelic design collective.

Image © Raoul Gatchalian Spring Summer 2012 Isetan Mitsukoshi promotion featuring Frida Gustavsson.

Image © Sofia Sanchez and Mauro Mongiello. S/S 2014 collection featuring menswear inspired by the Sixties London boutique Granny Takes a Trip.

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Images left to right :

Nordic Viking Ensemble, A/W 2015, inspired by the History Channel’s Vikings show. Textile print by Zandra Rhodes featuring feathers, shells and hibiscus © Zandra Rhodes, 2015.

Gigi Hadid and Caroline Trentini modelling the Polynesian Collection, Spring Summer 2016. The print on the dress modelled by Gigi Hadid was commissioned from Zandra Rhodes and the models also wear wedge-heeled Hush Puppies shoes, which highlight Sui’s ability to make strategic partnerships with kindred designers and manufacturers.

Image © Jennifer Graylock. Surfer-inspired look from the S/S 2016 Tahiti collection.

The exhibition is arranged thematically with 12 inspirational archetypes which recur throughout Anna Sui’s collections. Please refer to the exhibition booklet for additional interpretation.

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Anna Sui designs and manufactures from her New York City headquarters. Her runway shows continue to inspire and set trends with her signature rock- n-roll romanticism. The Anna Sui brand has been independently owned since its inception in 1981.

The Fashion and Textile Museum is at 83 Bermondsey Street, London SE1 3XF.

http://www.ftmlondon.org #annasui

Predictions for Fall

alice logo

Alice Grosso – designandcolour@gmail.com

Theses are a selection of designs from Sublitex showing strong print trends and colours for the next season.

 

We predict a dustier navy, mustard, black, kelly green, khaki and berry red for the bolder grounds. Florals are de rigeur and have a vintage feel. They are medium sized, moving away from the dramatically big and often spaced.

 

There is a Jacobean feel to some of the florals and hence the paisley is on the rise but in a loose fluid format. Patchworks or handkerchief designs but less rigid in structure from those of the past.

 

 

 

Softer dustier colours add elegance with sages, greys, dusty pinks, stone and teals.

Moving on from the gingham and striped grounds we now have random spots and woven checks and textures.

 

 

Sublitex will be showing these designs and others from the new range at the London Textile Fair next week.

We will have a full range of colours for Autumn Winter.

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