Vlisco

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With the current incoming trend for the ethnic tribal prints we thought we should investigate a major producer of the African fabrics and the story is truly fascinating.

In the 1800s there was a family owned cotton printing mill in Helmond, The Netherlands, called P.F. van Vlissingen & Co, which later became known as Vlisco. This was the dawn of the industrial revolution which the mill eagerly embraced alongside the exciting global trade opportunities of the Dutch East Indies, present day Indonesia.

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Part of the  Vlissingen family owned a sugar plantation on the island of Java in the Dutch East Indies. Frits Vlissingen visited a small factory in the southern part of Java, where men and women were drawing lines and dots on cotton with the technique of wax-resist dyeing, known as batik. He was so impressed by the quality of these fabrics that he immediately sent samples to his family in Helmond.

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In Helmond Pieter Vlissingen set about developing mechanized ways of reproducing the batik techniques which were laboriously hand crafted in Java with the vision of selling these into the Indonesian market. He was not alone as the British, Swiss and Belgians had the same idea and it was HKM from Belgium who likewise became important suppliers to the East of these new mass produced batik effect cloths.

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Later in the century the demand for batik designs in Indonesia waned as local fashion and production methods evolved and Vlisco were forced to look for new markets. They turned to both nearer to home and also to West Africa where an appreciation of the complexity of design and use of Indigo was a huge hit.

This success has continued today as Vlisco fabrics lead the way in West African fashion and we will feature some of their latest collection in our next blog.

The Printing Process…

the process

the designer

1. The Designers

The creative minds behind Vlisco designs sketch out their ideas.

the design support

2. Design Support

The people who make the creative ideas of the designers technically executable.

the printing rollers

3. The Printing Rollers

Where the design is transferred from digital information on to two copper printing rollers.

the wax printing machine

4. The Wax printing machine

Dripping in wax, the rollers transfer the design onto both sides of the cotton cloth.

indigo bath

5. Indigo bath

The wax printed cloth is dyed in indigo baths and the parts without wax become a deep, intense blue.

the wax breaking machine

6. The Wax Breaking Machine

This machine is unique – by swinging the cloth in containers, random parts of the Wax are removed, revealing the white cloth underneath.

first colour

7. First Colour

The cloth is dryed and the first colour is printed on top of the remaining Wax.

second colour

8. Second Colour

The Wax is now completely removed. When the cloth is dry, a second colour is printed.

washing

9. Washing

The cloth is washed to remove all excess colour.

final visual inspection

10. Final visual inspection

As the fabric whiz passed the eyes of the highly trained experts inspectors so that all the fabrics are of Vlisco certified quality.

Take the time to watch these true beautiful and informative animated films from Vlisco that are works of art in themselves.

We would like to thank Vlisco for allowing us to share all this with you.

 

Printed Swimwear

For those of you lucky enough to be escaping to warmer climates, we though we would put together a range of some of the high streets most interesting and fun swimwear. From edgy Speedo collaborations to more traditional pretty floral swimsuits. Hopefully there is something here to inspire everyone. Enjoy the Sun!

House of Holland X Speedo collection

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Tie dye

Make waves in and out of the water with the tie dye range inspired by House of Holland’s Pre-Fall 2019 collection.

http://www.speedo.com/uk/en/house-of-holland

Sunset Stripe

Don’t just watch the sunset this summer BE the sunset! Inspired by House of Holland’s Pre-Fall 2019 collection.

http://www.instagram.com/speedouk/
http://www.speedo.com/uk/en/house-of-holland

Figleaves

A shape and a fabulous print for everyone in the amazing extensive collection of fabulous swimwear on the fig leaves website. A few of out favourite florals and other colourful designs below.

Fantasie Anguilla Tropical and Fiji prints

Figleaves Fiji Palm classic and hawaii floral prints

Figleaves Oriental Jade and Lima prints

Above swimsuits from: https://www.figleaves.com/uk/swimwear/

Seafolly

On Vacation collection.

Ocean Ombre collection.

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Modern Art collection

Above images from: http://www.seafolly.com/

 

 

 

NEW DESIGNERS 2019

The Print Affair continue to support young people in the textile industry whether they be students or taking the first steps in their careers.  Following our recent visit to the ‘New Designers’ exhibition the other week at the Business Design Centre in Islington, please see more of our top picks below.

Thank you to all the exhibitors, whether you feature or not over the next few weeks, for the amazing show that you all put on.  We wish you the best of luck for the future.

 

Liam Clair

Textile Design, Nottingham Trent

Liam’s large interest in ‘Synesthesia’ and the relationship between music and the mind is the basis for his work. Inspired by the work of Kandinsky and his synesthetic theories, Liam’s work seeks to visualise the ephemeral emotions triggered by music through surreal landscapes of lucid colour.

liamclair19@gmail.com

 

Johanna Squires

 Textile Design, Falmouth University

‘Unpredictability’ is a key element throughout Johanna’s prints; created with observational drawings and imagined scenarios that provoke thought. Through carefully selected concepts, the prints have various layers of meaning which constructs a dynamic relationship between designer and viewer.

Initially inspired by surrealist artist De Chirico, as having an avant-garde take on surrealism in terms of collating organic and architectural structures, this collection capitalises on this. ‘Eye of the Beholder’ encompasses many impactful elements featuring natural creatures in uncommon scenarios, through the use of manmade structures, and as a result of this, their being almost becomes human-like giving the client a ‘new world’ experience.

Johannaasquires@gmail.comM: 07713354626     @jo_squ_tex

 

Demi Carter

Textiles and Surface Design at University of Bolton

Digital print has been a main focus in Demi’s collection. Her final show named ‘Kew Botanica’ is a collection of high-end interior furnishings and wallcoverings which is inspired by a visit to Kew Gardens.

She has taken approaches to visual enquiry including hand drawing with watercolour media, paying close attention to delicate florals and British blooms to inform subtle changes in colour, pattern and tone.  The dark, muted colour palette is balanced by pops of deep pinks and yellow on the flowers, whilst creating drama and a feel of luxuriousness through the contrast of light and dark grounds. The large floral designs have been created to enhance the detail and depth of the illustrations.­

demicarterdesign@outlook.com       @demicarterdesign  T: 07933950344

 

Olivia Beat

Textile Design at Duncan of Jordanstone College of Art and Design, University of Dundee.

Olivia’s graduate work is inspired by the evolution of British Gardens throughout history.  During each era, gardens served different purposes such as medicinal and representing wealth and status, as well as the multitude of plants that were specific to that period of time – each telling their own individual story.

The bold and vibrant backgrounds create a statement which in turn gives a sense of luxury, as well as maintaining fun and exciting visuals. The combination of digital and hand drawn work shows a contemporary approach to traditional floral interior textiles.

oliviabeattextiles@gmail.com         @oliviabeattextiles

 

       Martha Crimmins-Impey

Surface Pattern Design at Staffordshire Unversity

Martha’s debut collection at New Designers was inspired by a once in a life-time trip to Namibia, Southern Africa, where she volunteered with African wildlife, experiencing her love for nature at new extremes.

Focusing on her unusual encounters, including curious reptiles and unusual florals, Martha creates a unique collection of designs that evoke sophistication and luxuriousness, through use of rich colours and lavish fabrics.

marthacrimminsimpey1@hotmail.com     @martha_.designs

Fashion Spotting in Capri

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Last week I was lucky enough to be in Sorrento and went over to Capri for the afternoon. The island is naturally gorgeous and attracts throngs of tourists from all backgrounds from ferry day trippers to superyacht passengers.

Below are pictures of people I spotted around the port in the early evening. Some were headed back to the mainland, while others were arriving for their holidays suitcases in hand. The amount of prints being worn was immense from exclusive designer wear to more modest sources but all looking glorious in the sultry evening sun.

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Even the policewomen oozed style and glamour.

Liberty of London 


Liberty of London launches its debut womenswear collection for spring 2020.

Holly Marler, the head of design, brings a very romantic and feminine feel to the collection.

The collection celebrates the history of Liberty prints using their enormous and trusted archive. The garments are reassuringly relaxed and wearable yet these very special pieces are likely to be the best dresses in the room.

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The collection includes engineered prints allowing the print to contour on the body. The main pieces are dresses which are very much day to evening wear with great attention to detail and print mixing that no-one does better than Liberty.

Besides using iconic designs from the Art Nouveau era there are also many new prints ensuring that the design library is continually evolving.

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All images in this blog are from Libertylondon.com

https://www.youtube.com/libertylondon

London Textile Fair July 2019

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What we saw and liked at the LTF July 16-17 2019.

We loved this shirting print from Merline Tekstil Sanayi A.s. which incorporates, photo real flowers, line work in the leaves and the superimposition of diagonal stripes. This is a well executed beautiful print.

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Printed on a sueded fabric faced neoprene material for outwear, the delicacy of the print,and softness of the face contradicts the rather technical industrial structure of this product.

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The beautiful free hand painting of these flowers and the delightful colour palette caught our eye as we passed the Tema stand.

The best print on a man at the show LTF goes to Christopher Goodman. These amazing jeans combine a Jackson Pollock abstract splatter print with a Graffiti over lay. It is truly different and was printed digitally in Japan for Charles Jeffrey Loverboy collection for whom Christopher works. With the roped necked T shirt, chest slung bum bag and orange trainers, you are the “Best in Show”. Thank-you.

Howard Blumenthal shows some of the magnificent prints from Creations Deveaux.

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May we recommend the café in The Business Design Centre for lunch and introducing our intern for the day who wants to be a fashion designer, Keira from Aberdeen.

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A vintage feel whether a modern interpretation or the genuine article is very chic.

Youthful prints from Lami Textiles.

Europa have a special process that allows them to print sublimation designs on to cotton denim fabrics and we loved the twill effect of the denim coming through behind this design.

 

NEW DESIGNERS 2019

The Print Affair are keen to support young people in the textile industry whether they be students or taking the first steps in their careers. We all remember what inspired us to join this crazy club, who encouraged us and the pride we had when our efforts were recognized. For this reason we always try to attend shows promoting new designers such as that the other week at the Business Design Centre in Islington.

Please see some of our top picks below and thank you to all the exhibitors, whether you feature or not over the next few weeks, for the amazing show that you all put on and thank-you.

Laura Cloughton 

 Printed Surface Designer, University of Huddersfield. 

Laura typically works with digital print methods. Her graduate collection Botanical Opulence is a collection of Textile Designs for a high-end interior market inspired by the richness of nature. Bold and bright botanicals and an extra dimension of animal print, portrayed through mixed media and collage sit alongside hand painted textures placed over rich backgrounds that provide an illusion of depth and luxuriousness.

Lauracloughton9@live.co.uk    @lauracloughtontextiles

Chloe Dacosta

Surface Pattern Design at University of Wales Trinity Saint David

With a strong use of abstract forms and textures, Chloe has created a contemporary body of work  within an interior context. Most confident when designing digitally, the collection is entirely digitally printed to give it the modern feel that reflects Chloe’s design identity.

Her degree show collection is titled “Lost and Found” as it focuses on the narrative between botanical forms and the natural beauty and power of it. Throughout this collection the notion of nature is celebrated and is unapologetically allowed to grow freely and as naturally as possible.

T: 07956070402    Chloe_da_costa@hotmail.com    @chloedacostadesigns

Saffron Sanderson

Textiles: ‘Innovation & Design’, Loughborough University

Inspired by glorious childhood memories of summers spent in her Grandparents’ garden, Saffron’s project ‘Blooming Impressionisms’ is a celebration of large-scale florals created using various experimental impressionistic print techniques.

The desire to showcase bold, vibrant and eye-catching colours within a floral thematic context which forms the genesis of this interiors collection. With a heavy nod to Scandinavian inspired simplicity – whilst portraying a clear sense of happiness and positivity.

Combining the painterly with mixed media techniques, this is a refined collection that concentrates on selected screen printed and digital output.

T: 07495768883    saffrones@icloud.com

                  Ellie-mae Barr

 Textile Design, Falmouth University

These prints combine strong illustrative and graphic drawing styles to create designs that have an underlying meaning; inspired greatly by politics and issue-based news witnessed amongst Ellie-Mae’s travels.  The final project was based upon Brexit and conveys Britain’s relationship with the EU and envisions what I believe the future may hold for the UK. Data and graphical information play an essential role within the prints to show accurate, un-biased information that can be communicated to all.

‘I have a future way of thinking that inspires new pop-art style prints. I have been greatly inspired by artists such as, Grayson Perry’s with his collection of tapestries called Vanity of Small Differences’. 

elliemaebarr97@gmail.com

All images shown, are the intellectual property of the artists and may not be used or replicated but may be available direct from the artist. 

As a group of bloggers working in the print industry we are very keen to hear from anyone who has something interesting to share with us in this field. You maybe print or fashion designers but we are looking to be creatively inspired so we invite photographers, painters, street artists and anyone who enjoys design and colour to come forward.

Sublitex Menswear response part 2

The Spring Summer Menswear shows for 2020 have been so inspiring for print. A diverse range of designs and patterns showcased; much more that the womenswear. Break the cycle and repetitive nature of the prints we see so often on the high-street… We are looking to be challenged and inspired! Brighten up your day with the prints below from Sublitex.

dries van noton 2020

Dries Van Noten – vogue.co.uk

givenchy 2020

Givenchy. Vogue.co.uk

alexander mcqueen 2020

Alexander McQueen. Vogue.co.uk

d and g 2020

Dolce and Gabanna. Vogue.co.uk

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Dries Van Noten. Vogue.com

Menswear Spring/Summer 2020 Part 2

Florals for Spring…

Bold, edgy and densely compact floral prints from Dries Van Noten and D & G.  Louis Vuittons’ runway was fresh and bright with pinks and purples on white grounds.

Dries Van Noten

 

 

 

Dolce and Gabanna

 

d andg mens 2020

Louis Vuitton

 

louis vuitton5 2020

Saint Laurent and Sacai

 

Paul Smithpaul smith2020

Givenchy

 

Marni and Lanvin

 

Alexander McQueen

alexander mcqueen 2020

 

Graphic prints; spots, stripes and other geometric designs from D and G, Balmain and Issey Miyake.

Dolce and Gabanna

 

Balmain

balmain2 2020

Issey Miyake

 

All images vogue.com